16 thoughts on “440 Chrysler engine rebuild part 2

  1. Nice videos now is there a torque sequence you need to follow when torqueing the caps? Also are all 440s the same? As in the #1 cap goes towards the front of the motor?

  2. Probably always a good idea to use a good micrometer and dial bore gauge to go by actual #'s vs plasti-gauge.I see some guy on here building a 440 had a problem with the cam sprocket pin shearing off, can]t say much for that design to be honest when compared to the 3 bolt GM design. Are you building a customers engine or for yourself?

  3. Im always having trouble with stting end play on my 340, I am rebuilding it soon,Does it need to be done and if its off what do u do ?

  4. one big thing i see you doing wrong is using a steel hammer to seat those main bearings when you should use a rubber mallet to avoid damage to the beariing cap

  5. Good video; Say, I bought a 440 running motor that I checked for cold cranking compression, which turned out 145-150 lbs. It came out of a 72 Dodge D200 pickup. I have a 6-pack setup and headers I plan to install on it- just for cool factor street use. I'm looking into what cam to use. Judging from those numbers, should it be rebuilt before putting it to use…?  Thanks-

  6. Read some of the comments here. Who cares about the stupid hammer. He's just making a point about seating the caps. And from my experience, that steel hammer is more accurate than a rubber mallet for that purpose. I can see he knows what he's doing!

  7. as I've said before every video I watch that you do I learn more more and I really appreciate you are experience and knowledge I don't care what somebody's knucklehead say you're obviously knowledgeable and experience I've seen other videos and there are a few other guys who seem to know what they doing but you definitely are in the top five that's for sure, my question is in the last I seen you way pistons to get out Bob weight, does this have to be done to all engines even on a regular factory rebuilt I mean is it necessary or mandatory unless you're building a race motor

  8. Did I see correctly that you blocked the #5 oil hole with a bearing without a hole? If this is the case I sure hope you didn't fire the engine. Anyone else notice this?

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