32 thoughts on “#6 – Briggs and Stratton 5HP 130202 – Crankshaft and Camshaft installation

  1. Nice to see how the crank & cam shaft goes in, but what about bearings and seals?
    I mean opening the engine will mostly be to replace or check these, no?

  2. @tv175s3 This particular engine has no bearings. There is an "oil seal" on the crankcase cover and on the front of the engine where the crankshaft sticks through. I did replace the front oil seal but did not get it on video. The seal had to be "pressed in". I used a block of wood and gentle tapping with a ball peen hammer.

  3. I find my parts from several different places. Try ereplacementparts or partstree or even craigslist and ebay. Some parts are no longer available or are very expensive. Sometimes, you might be better off buying a used engine for parts. Sorry I couldn't help any better. Happy hunting.

  4. Some use an oil slinger and that hooks over the top of the cam shaft. I have never seen an oil splash but all my rebuilds have been older Briggs!

  5. The Briggs I am working on at the moment has a dot on the crank gear and has a mark on the cam shaft gear and btw my cam shaft gear is plastic. It was made in 2002 🙂 I never saw that before either.. It also doesn't have the tabs to hold the connecting rod bolts in place either. Just want to let some folks no things can be similar but different.

  6. With this particular model, the timing is determined by lining up the marks on the cam and crankshaft. If the piston were at TDC, the marks would not line up.
    Thanks for watching.

  7. oil slinger making banging noise when i pull start the mower any help would be thankfull, the slinger is in place not lying on the bottom thanks

  8. Are you sure it's the oil slinger? Unless it's bent or something, I don't see how it could be banging on anything. Sometimes the valves stick, and that causes some noise.

  9. yea the metal is waking the case ,rebuilt it 12 xs and it just wont stop banging, i will swap parts from other mower of the same and see what it does, if it acts up off to the scrap yard with it.

  10. My latest rebuild was a 5HP B&S. It ran OK but I wanted to clean it up. After attaching the connecting rod to the crank, the bottom of the connecting rod would hit the cam shaft! Strange that it happens now when it didn't happen before. Anyhow, I ended up filing a bit of it off and now it runs well without hitting the cam shaft. Thanks again.

  11. I FOUND out the plastic cam gear was damaged in 2 areas so i replaced it with a spare part and it runs great .and oil slinger is working the way it should thanks

  12. Try Briggs and Stratton 276781. This is a book that I have and it serves me well. Thanks for watching.

  13. very cool! can i ask-do you think on this engine if oil is seeping past the rings that it might foul the plug so badly that it might cause the engine not to start at all? i have spark, fuel, woodruff key is there, took the head off and see oil on the wrong side of the piston even though the engine never previously smoked so im about to take it all apart to see if i can hone it if needs and fit some new rings. does that sounds like a plausable non starter reason on an ill maintained jobbing mower

  14. It is possible that the rings need to be replaced. It is also possible that the plug is getting fouled because the fuel mixture is too rich. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.

  15. I have to buy a new crank shaft, but it is identical to the one I had before (from what I can tell, I think the end past the thread broke off) and exact the same as the one here. He said he didn't know if it had a dot or mark because he already shipped it, though the gear was taken off the shaft in the photo. Do I just slide the gear onto the notch and then line it up with the cam? I'm really asking if it's "plug and play".

  16. Alright. Got the new shaft, wrong size :/. He does accept returns though. On my new starter clutch, there's a hole that looks like a part of the shaft should go inside of if, but online, I can only find shafts for my engine that do not have a part sticking out past the threads. Care to help a fellow out please?

  17. Okay, sorry for the long time of no response, graduation from the program promoted some changes of occupation. But, I will be installing the new shaft tommrow, it did arrive and is a correct fit. The only difference being the cam gear is removable, but it does have an alignment mark. One question I had before is, I had the engine to run on drill power, but when I reassembled, the pull start did not want to start it. I took apart the assembly, and started with a drill, and while I was tinkering with the air knob, is when the old crank broke. Any suggestions? I was able to get the engine to ignite before using the pull start by spraying ESF in the intake.
    -thanks.

  18. I have the new shaft in and everything is re-assembled discounting the muffler, and the fuel tank/carb. I try to spray fluid into the intake and it acted like it wanted to turn over, but not to the point where the engine ran. It only sounded like it wanted to. i can hear the compression. I put fluid into the head as well, but no luck. Any suggestions? I think that it is because i am using the pull start instead of the drill, but the socket doesnt fit my new clutch. 

  19. Well when you clean something , it's really clean !  good job !  I'm in the market for a 10 h.p. engine for my rear engine riding mower .  Any ideas ?

  20. There is an issue where if there is an "X" cast into the piston pin boss, it needs to be on the same side as the flywheel.
    Also, I assume since there is a ball bearing hiding the cam timing mark on the crank, there is one on the counterweight.
    These are seriously important points to be made, and you failed to.

  21. Great video. Several times you reference a book. What book would that be. I have this same engine, am interested in small engine repair, and have nary an idea about what I am doing.

    Thanks,

    Matt

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