Briggs and Stratton 14.5 HP OHV Reassembly. Then i stripped the crankshaft threads (Old Update)

(not running on video) Reassembling the 14.5 OHV Briggs and Stratton Model 28. I am concentrating more on the OHV part of the engine, everything else goes together the same as a flathead, also note flatheads cams and OHV camshafts are different. Put it back together ran great, better than ever, then it sheared the flywheel key, as you can tell by it backfiring. Then i put another one in it, tightened the nut down then the threads stripped out. I will do another update on this eventually if i get another crankshaft or have this one fixed. Thanks for watching and sorry you didn’t see it running in this video.



44 thoughts on “Briggs and Stratton 14.5 HP OHV Reassembly. Then i stripped the crankshaft threads (Old Update)

  1. I'm rebuilding my 14.5 hp Intek and noticed 2 valve stem seals were in the kit, but on the engine the ex valve didn't have a seal installed. I installed the seal anyway but both seals were the same material and I wonder if this seal will survive in the extra heat conditions. Even after being a mechanic(retired) for 38 years I learn every day which IMO saves a wasted day, and when I replaced the base gasket on this engine last year I tried to help the gasket and coated the parts with gasket maker. This was a mistake as it dissolved the new gasket and created massive leaks. I found the head gasket broken between the pushrod well and the combustion chamber which seems to be a common problem I'm told. I'm just finishing up on this engine and just need to torque the head bolts and flywheel nut before adding the covers etc.

  2. Lol, I appreciate you trying to show folks how to do a reassembly but have to say that you left out way too much info to be of good help to most who would need help on reassembly. You should have shown more detail on the balance weight ass., timing , and base cover install. You should maybe do another vid with these details included as your heart is in the right place.

  3. Let me ask some one here ,I cain't find an answer on the net…If the Stator is shorted or bad will it cause this engine not to fire?

  4. I've always been amazed that people waste money buying valve spring compressors for small engines. 

    It's great how you brought this engine back from the dead. Thanks!

  5. Did you happen to get my message? The whole YouTube messaging system now is too complicated now so I wanted to check and see if you got it. Thx man

  6. Yeah! Ok, when you set the timing (aligning the mark on the crank and cam) you do not need the piston on tdc, the only time the piston needs to be on tdc is when you are setting the valve clearance (bring the piston up to tdc on compression stroke). as long as the cam and crank timing marks line up thats all that matters. I show this in my 4 part rebuild video (it was a flathead engine rebuild, but the timing marks are the same on all briggs engines). hope this helps, thanks for watching!!!

  7. can you help me with a 18.5 hp B & S virtical engine. Is the camshaft and crankshaft should they be aligned and if so how do you get the piston tdc. i can get the marks on the cam and crank to line up but the piston is not tdc. thank you

  8. true, I need to do a another video on talking about OHV valves on these motors, more detail. What i do is bring the piston up on compression TDC then set the valves, they are completely closed then, only time is the compression release lobe is engaged is about the middle of the compression stroke. thanks for watching!

  9. best place to order any engine (or lawnmower) parts is from tulsa engine warehouse (tewarehouse dotcom) hope it didn't score the cylinder any that wouldn't be good. as far as i know they will ship to Canada. thanks for watching!!!

  10. where can i get new rings for mine? i was putting it on a go kart and on the first test run i stupidily over revd it and broke the rings, im in canada aswel, thanks!

  11. no problem! most of the time you can get by with standard size rings, unless the cylinder is scored really bad then it would need bored out, but 90% of the time, you can get by with standard size, part number for that on yours would be, 495854. just google that number along with briggs and stratton and you should find it online, i recommend dealing with either pats small engine or tulsa engine warehouse. hope this helps! heard that! got to love guitar!

  12. Thanks brother I really appreciate it. My connecting rods are the same length just difference in thickness. Sorry to ask this but I have one more question. Piston rings? How do I know Im getting the right size, I cant find it and dont want to order the wrong ones. Theres are this stuff about date code.Model 28Q777 Type 0112 01 Code 9410124B. Any advice would be appreciated keep up the videos there awesome! and keep pickin, im a fellow guitar picker myself. Thanks!

  13. thanks! no OHV settings are different, valve settings for a 28 is: intake is .003" to .005" and the exhaust is .005" to .007", head torque is 220 in. lbs, crankcase is: 140 in. lbs if they have loose washers and 200 in. lbs if the washer is built into the bolt head, connecting rod is 185 in lbs if both bolts are same size, and if they are different lengths its, 160 in lbs for the smaller bolt (torque it first) and 260 in lbs for the longer bolt.i need to do a video on torque specs!

  14. Hello, These videos are great Thank you very much! Im currently rebuilding a 15HP OHV Model 28. can I go by the same valve settings and torque settings you used in the video. or is there a website where I can get the correct specifications. Thank you again for these videos, for a 1st timer there are very informative.

  15. closes then fully opens on the exhaust stroke (if its the exhaust valve) if its not doing that then there is something wrong with the release. i actually made a video on how this works back in summer, if you want i can upload it so you can see more of what i'm talking about.

  16. just realized you said OHV, i bet it is the compression release. briggs has a 2nd lobe on the camshaft that pushes the valve open on the compression stroke, then when the motor starts, centrifugal force moves the lobe so it has full compression once running. either the valve lash is to much or something is wrong with the release system on the camshaft. pull the valve cover off, pull the spark plug, crank the motor over slowly, one of the valves (usually exhaust) opens just a little bit then…

  17. fixed the rope and bought a whole new recoil assem.(the plastic pieces broke) Adjusted the valve lash and it still pulls hard. Engine turns smooth as butter without the plug. Im dumbfounded

  18. Quicj question. i replaced my head gasket on a similar ohv ngine. put it all back together and now too much compression to start any ideas?

  19. you try that, i'm curious about this, its normal to have more compression with a new gasket but it shouldn't be that hard to crank. thanks for watching!!!

  20. wow thats a new one for me haha i wouldn't think it would be the valves, usually when valves acts up its low compression. i did think that maybe something was on top of the piston hitting the head, but you would feel it clunk everytime you turned it over. what shape was the rope in? possible that i was about ready to break anyways. first thing to do is pull the spark plug out see if the motor turns over free, after you fix the rope. thanks for watching, let me know when you…

  21. quickquestion, have a similar ohv briggs…i replaced the head gasket and now it has so much compression i broke the recoil start…any ideas? valves off?

  22. @1972FordF150 i've never had a problem with a briggs overheating. the main reason the old ford v8's over heated was because of how the exhaust was routed around the cylinders. which i never did think to much of that, but thats the only i don't like about them

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