Briggs and Stratton 23D finally up and running

After getting just the Block from Joes I sent it out to have the cylinder bored .20 over and to have a new exhaust valve seat put in. After I got it all buttoned up I had a spark issue that I had to walk away from for a while. Well, today was the day that The engine and I were ready to work. I had my point gap too close and I was getting a false positive spark response. So..after readjusting the points, it was good to go.



23 thoughts on “Briggs and Stratton 23D finally up and running

  1. I need help figuring out why I have no spark. I have the same briggs 23d engine that is on a generator (Dayton 3500 watt). I have a spark problem. The spark plug wire had current enough to shock me but the spark plug does not spark even when I try with different plugs that I know is good. I removed the flywheel expecting to find the old points ignition system but this engine has no points. The ignition system is an unusual type that is mounted to the shaft itself.

  2. If you have the coil and it's bad, you can replace just the coil pack on these and reuse the laminated part. Contact Jacks Small Engines on line and they can get you the replacement coil pack to put on your existing coil lamination. Hope this helps!

  3. An armature? This engine has no armature. The Starter Generator that spins the engine over has an armature. Is that what you're referring to?

  4. Hey i need an amature for this engine do you have any that i could buy off of you or do u know where i could get one, i tried sears parts direct but their website is down!

  5. Hello..Thanks for all the informative videos you have done….I need help finding part numbers to rebuild my Briggs 23 D…..Any ideas where I can get this info or parts ??? Thanks.

  6. Respond to this video… My apologies!! THIS Engine was built in 1964! Not 1967. I just posted an engine problem video and thought the question was directed at that engine which was built in 1967.

  7. Hello Zippo, I love your vids, they are entertaining and informative.. Thanks.

    I have some questions about a Montgomery Wards Garden Mark Squire 10 that I have just aquired. Can you tell me if there is a way to bring this thing back to life if the original armaturecoil is bad?

  8. @centrospherecom Your points cover part number is (2)211327. Yes, you can block off the points and use any of the many available points eliminator ignition modules. To properly block off the points, pull the points plunger strait out towards you. There is a small micrta tip that rides on the cam that will pop off the end and fall into the oil sump area. Then tap the bronze guide flush and cap it. Ebay is a good place to find a points cover.

  9. I'm trying to source a replacement points cover for one of these engines, but am having trouble finding a part number to even search for. I need to replace the points, but can at least find those. Does the Stens 440-065 Mega-Fire ignition module work without difficulty on these engines? Would be nice to just throw my money at the electronic ignition module instead of points, condenser and cover – making a flat plate and gasket to blank off the points port would be a no-brainer.

  10. @fogt1430 They are bottom left of the carb. Typically there is a cover in place to protect the points from the elements. Check my video on installing points to see where they are and how to replace/adjust them.

  11. To remedy the problem requires having the crank shaft journals turned down and having the end plates bored out and bushed with oi-lite bushings. A rather costly process. The engine must come out of the tractor and you need to try to get the end plate off the flywheel side so you can oil the stuck end plate to prevent further damage. Disconnect the connecting rod and remove the crank from the flywheel side. Make sure the crank shaft end is clean of rust to help prevent more damage.

  12. The 23D doesn't have "bearings" on the crank shaft plates. This is unfortunate for many who attempt to start these engines after they have sat for years. The end plates are the bearing, and when they have sat for extended periods, the end plate/bearing dries out. These are splash oiled engines, so when cranking the engine over at slow speeds to try to get it started you are actually creating friction on the crank and end plate. End result…bad crank and end plate.

  13. (gaak – it posted multiple times, sorry)

    Finding anything more than generic information on this motor is proving difficult.

    No luck getting the plate off the shaft, though with a pipe wrench, I can get the shaft to rotate, but it takes a lot of effort (enough so I know it'd never turn over with the starter).

  14. I have a 23D in a Simplicity garden tractor, which the front bearings siezed up on yesterday. What's the best way to get the bearing plate off the motor? I have bearings on order, and a new seal and gasket in hand – just need to get the bearing out.

    Motor is presently in the tractor still – I'm not prepared to bench it right now. Would like to source a spare motor at some point – what do you do with your stack of old motors?

  15. Hiya Storm! Hmm…counting…just 5 with two being in need of repairs. Two rebuilt and one still hanging in there. All told there's over 2 dozen engines to play with. Never a dull moment!! It's nearly impossible to let them sit after they've been restored….at least that's how it is for me….and apparently you also…lol.

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