Briggs and Stratton Intek OHV 18HP rebuild (part 3)



Repair of a briggs intek from a craftsman lt2000 tractor.
Part 3 of the series. I seal up the crankcase and torque it down.
Comments welcome, and thanks for watching.

Disclaimer

Due to factors beyond the control of Alex S “Multikhaz”, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Alex S “Multikhaz” assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Alex S “Multikhaz” recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Alex S “Multikhaz” no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Alex S “Multikhaz”.

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39 thoughts on “Briggs and Stratton Intek OHV 18HP rebuild (part 3)

  1. Thanks for this great series of videos! I have the exact engine that you've rebuilt, and it was running extremely poorly. Cleaning the carb, adjusting the mix, and replacing the plug made no improvement. I went to adjust the valves and noticed that they were barely moving with the rotation of the crankshaft. Your videos gave me the confidence to crack it open and check the camshaft. Sure enough the lobes were almost completely worn off. With the new camshaft it is running great. Thanks!

  2. I am glad to hear about your success. I have never heard of the lobes wearing off so badly, but first time for everything! Thanks for the feedback!

  3. Actually it is the second time for me on this engine. The first time happened in the first two years I owned the mower, and the camshaft was replaced under warranty. It took another eight years for the lobes on the replacement to wear to the useless point. And yes I keep oil in there! Go figure. Thanks.

  4. Thanks for the videos. Was helpful in getting ours running again. Replaced the governor/oil splasher and flywheel due to a broken compression release (it over-revved when the governor broke, I shut it off quickly but not quick enough I guess). 

  5. There was a class action lawsuit on B&S about 7 years ago; it was because of over rated horsepower figures on engines. I know the way to calculate HP on normally aspirated  4 stroke is based on displacement and rpm . the suit was settled out of court I believe. This is incentive for consumers to rush out and but new "macho" lawn mower. My old school Kohler m16 has tons more power than similar powered Briggs.

  6. there is a bolt below the crankshaft on my 17.5hp OHV briggs.  looks like it mounts to the frame supporting the base of the crankshaft. for the life of me i cant rethread it back in. any ideas?

  7. Alex question when setting the timing is the piston at tdc I just put mine back together and it acts like timing is off it pops back thru carb I took it back apart and tried timing it again and the same thing what could I possibly have wrong

  8. Thanks for this series of videos. Going to repair headgasket on 31C707. What oil do you recommend running in these engines?

  9. Just rebuilt my 18.5 Intek, as it was burning oil, worn rings, blown head gasket.  Everything went smooth, except, I noticed there are 2 possible ways that the camshaft and crankshaft could align.  I thought I had it right, not sure.  Upon trying to start it, cranking is very hard, as in too much compression.  I removed spark plug and it cranks smoothly.  Is it possible I aligned the cam and crank wrong, causing high compression.  I will be disassembling to check, according to your video. Valves were timed and new rings were installed, within spec.  Cylinder was very good, exactly within spec. Anything else I should look for?  Your comments would be appreciated.  Thanks. 

    Ken G.

  10. Thanks Alex..I watched a lot of rasslin' with your engine rebuild, but..you skipped right past the reason I watched this..the Automatic Compression Release..at least I know it's there now, and,as valve adjustment didn't help my starting problem (B&S 21 HP), I guess I'll be doing some rasslin' myself, that is, tear down the engine to inspect this ATR rascal.Stay tuned.

  11. Hi Alex, 
    These are Great Videos, like everyone else, I wish I watched before the blowup or before I bought the tractor in the first place. Anyway my 18 hp B&S Intek broke the exhaust valve just at the start of the stem, the cam side of the stem is fine, the top of the valve imbedded into the head, (makes a nice paperweight) the piston has some scrapes and cuts on top but cylinder wall is perfect,Oil was fine, is it possible I could buy a new Head assembly and reinstall or do you think I need to replace the piston, 
    The last B&S I rebuilt was 33 years ago in shop class…You make it look easy!
    Thank You,

    John

  12. My crankshaft seized onto the sump cover. I removed all 10 bolts and mounted the sump back into the engine mount and pounded on the crankshaft. I had to destroy the sump in order to get into the internals. Have you had this experience and what's the best option if one has a seized crankshaft?

    BTW. Thanks for videos in this series it help me out in identifying all the parts.  

  13. Hello !
    I get it that your name is Alex ?
    Well ! 
    I like to thank you for your video ,because this is my first time opening this same engine and yes i had to because i was told the decompression part has problem and yes when i opened the engine the part behind the cam shaft fell out and i didnt know where the part had come off from and as soon as you mentioned the cam shaft ,i got it and again thanks for your help ,God bless !

  14. Our DYT4000 Craftsman has a 18.5 hp Briggs & Stratton engine. It developed a loud clattering noise. I was able to get it disassembled, thinking I had a broken rod. I have found nothing wrong, other than the counterbalance appears to be loose enough to hit a gusset inside the block area. All pieces seem to be in good shape. I noticed in our manual that they show a pin-counterweight, that I don't believe is in the engine. I have not disassemble any of that. Any ideas for the loud clatter, from my info?

  15. John Deere 115 with B&S 19hp. Just Replaced Rod and Piston, along with Sump Gasket, Oil O Ring and when I fill with oil it begins to leak from O-Ring area. Your Videos have been extremely helpful and informative, thanks! What suggestions do you have for the O-Ring area Leak?

  16. Alex, I am having problems with my governor crank lever not lining up with my oil slinger. It seems the lever is not long enough to reach the end of the oil slinger. It may be bent but I can't confirm this. Can you post a quick vid on the installation of this lever and maybe some measurements of it. This 18hp Intek has been opened before I got it.
    Thanks

  17. Can you tell me if it is possible to remove the crankcase cover, to get at the camshaft, without disassembling/removing any of the other items on the engine? To me, it seems like I can just turn the engine over and remove the cover. Thanks for your help and for your outstanding engine series. There aren't many, and definitely none that are as good, on YouTube.

  18. great videos! I just got troy built 7500 watt electric start for free BC it wouldn't start. took it apart and found the cranks balancer arms had broke and few other things. found your videos to see what it was all suppose to look like in there. thanks!

  19. i have a 20 hp apposed engine, one of my valves is bent but i have no idea how to compress the spring to get it out. special tool?

  20. my Briggs and Stratton Craftsman Lt 1000 threw a rod threw the cylinder head (blasted right through the aluminum). I bought the replacement cylinder head with new valves and lifters and a head gasket. after watching your video I'm thinking that might not be the only fix it need even though that needs to be replaced. Do I need to do a complete rebuild? how do I know ? thanks for any advice you have before I start to assemble the cylinder head. Cheers.

  21. Valve timing off after reassembly

    I disassembled & reassembled a Briggs and Stratton Intek OHV 18 1/2 HP Engine Model # 31P777, Type 0367E1, Code 050405ZA

    I made sure when I re-installed the Camshaft that the dot lined up with the timing gear dot.
    The Piston & connecting rod where not touched
    Made sure that the push rods are in their correct locations.
    After the engine was re-assembled I observed:

    Turning flywheel CW by hand where magnet lines up with Coil Magneto, both valves are closed, which makes sense.
    Turning flywheel CW by hand one full rotation where magnet lines up again with Coil Magneto, intake valve is open & exhaust valve is closed, which does no look right.
    With intake valve open & exhaust valve closed the spark will now cause the engine to backfire.

    How is it possible for that to happen?

  22. I just put a new camshaft and oil slinger in a 21hp briggs. when I start the engine there is very bad throttle surge. if I hold the choke half way it runs good. also runs good if I hold the throttle rod, Any ideas? I have cleaned the carb replaced the plug and fuel filter. I installed the oil slinger as you did in the video

  23. I would have used gasket sealer on the crankcase gasket to avoid future leaks. Since I've never torn into the engine that you are working and you never showed the connecting rod bolts,are they torx? I think torx in such a situation is not so good as they do strip easier than any other fastener. If the threads are metric or SAE, I would probably replace them with a hex cap bolt if possible and available. I just hate torx and do not know why they were ever invented.Many times they are in places that require a lot of torque and end up getting stripped out, especially in the suspensions and brake systems.

  24. Can I replace this Briggs and Stratton with another make like Koehler or Kawasaki?Briggs as well as Tecumseh have always sucked hind tit and are the less desirable of any engines for me in critical machinery.

  25. I need some help I rebuild a 12.5 Briggs and Stratton I have it all in time but when I put the crank case back on I can't tighten any bolts because it won't let me turn the motor over

  26. You used red Loctite. Would that preclude you from backing those bolts out again (if for some reason you had to) except with extreme heat? Why not blue Loctite instead? Not questioning your decision; just curious. Great video; all you videos are superb. Thanks.

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