Briggs and stratton pressure washer carburetor rebuild



Just showing some of my work that I have right now. Yes the garage is still a mess but hopefully soon I can get some stuff done. Customer came in complaining that gas would pour out of the air cleaner when she filled it with gas. Turned out the carb was pretty gummed up. I know I mentioned the scott’s mower being made by Murray. I’ve been getting mixed messages so please don’t hate on me if I’m wrong. I know the Tecumseh engine was manufactured for Murray but I don’t know if that means the mower is made by them.

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26 thoughts on “Briggs and stratton pressure washer carburetor rebuild

  1. I cleaned the carb as the video shows, but noticed that the throttle does not spring back. Any ideas. When I pushed the throttle from side to side the level on the carb does not move.

  2. can you possibly provide me with the link for where I can get a rebuild kit for my pressure washer??? It is the same one (vr2500) 6.5 hp. I also need a new head gasket because I found that the head bolts were loose for some unknown reason, and the gasket got burned 🙁 It would help me out greatly if you could reply with a link or two to a good website where I can order the parts I need. Also, is minor cylinder wall scoring common with these series of engines?

  3. I got a free lawn mower with the same carb. The mower would start and then die out. I cleaned and rebuilt the carb, but now it leaks out the air cleaner like you mentioned. The leak is petty fast, it just flows. I think the float needle is sitting right. At first the float would not go horizontal because the red seal was not seated all the way down. After I figured that out, I got the red seal all the way down and the float seems to work properly. I'm not sure what is wrong now. What sould I do?

  4. I rebuilt the carb (got a B&S rebuild kit) on a nearly identical TroyBilt pressure washer this afternoon. Started it up and it ran for about one second, then died. I feel confident that I did the rebuild correctly, but I am frustrated that it didn't start right up like yours. Have new gas and new spark plug. Any thoughts?

  5. Why would you not show how the carb is rebuilt?I thought you were going well with nice clear camera work then all of a sudden you stick the camera on the side and everything speeds up and you show the carb all done.Not very good as far as a work aid.rethink your camera work and assume the viewer is new at this otherwise why would I be watching?

  6. I have a briggs and stratton power washer and when i fill the gas tank the power washer starts on first pull then dies 2 min later. The next morning all the gas from the tank has leaked out threw the air filter. Any ideas on how to fix?

  7. Sounds like the carburetor needle may be sticking and or the seat is bad. I would give it a good cleaning replacing the seat. Check the oil just to be sure fuel didn't make its way down into the crank case. Usually they just leak out the side of the air filter but on some occasion will mix into the oil.

  8. Thank you for your help!!!! Pat you were very rude you can listen to him and see most of it. I think that you have misplaced your anger about your problem on someone else who is trying to help!!! Thank you small engine 13 for taking your time to help out others I certainly appreciate it

  9. You're correct on this issue. I was on limited and didn't shoot a lot of the important details. I really need a small tripod to position the camera so everyone can see what I see. Hope to have some more vids soon. Just been busy at the shop. But for the record, no one is making you watch, so move on.

  10. I know this was awhile back but if this might help others out with the same problem here you go. Sounds like the main jet or possibly the emulsion tube is still plugged. If it's surging at high speed and won't idle, plugged idle circuit. Make sure you take your time to clean every possible passage and jet using a small strand of a copper wire or CAREFULLY use a torch tip cleaning tool. If all else fails, these carburetors are usually not that expensive to just replace to get back to work.

  11. Make sure the float is still good and is not leaking fuel into it and causing it to sink. If it's plastic you can usually see any fuel inside by shining it in a light. If it's and older brass float, shake it, feel and listen carefully for any liquid inside. Double check that the rubber seat is not damaged and that the smooth side of the seat is facing out toward the needle. Worse case is the brass seat is leaking around the outside and the brass seat or carb will need to be replaced.

  12. Go to the briggs website and enter the Model, Type and Code. Pull up the parts diagram and go from there. Where to get the parts is all preference but any reputable online source is fine and there is the local dealer of course. Any scoring in any engine means debris had gotten in between the piston and cylinder wall. If you can feel it with your finger nail it is a pretty bad score and may start burning oil and losing compression. If the piston has any play, the rings are toast.

  13. Sounds like corrosion or varnish got in. If it's a plastic shaft, the plastic probably swelled which is common. Remove the throttle plate and remove the shaft. Clean the now exposed bores in the carb with good carb cleaner. Polish the shaft to a good shine (if metal) using very fine sand paper and or 00 steel wool. You can sand the plastic down some as well if it's still tight. Use a heavier sand paper and polish it up with a finer material for final fitting.

  14. Do the little holes on the bowl bolt have to be in a certain place? Also, the bowl is dripping constantly now that I've had it apart, and all the gaskets seem to be fine, any idea what's going on?

  15. The bottom bowl bolt/jet has no specific orientation. Just thread it in and snug it, careful it's brass. As for the leak make sure all surfaces are clean to start with. Be sure everything is seated properly and snugly. If all checks out you may have a pin hole especially if there was rust. Try locating the leak by spraying some non chlorinated brake cleaner and blow it off with some compressed air to dry. If you're quick, you should be able to see where the leak is spreading from to diagnose.

  16. Thank you very much for this video, it helped me get mine running. My problem was  a clocked injector, you suggestion of soaking it fixed the problem.

  17. I just rebuilt the same carb off of the same scotts mower. Usual problems, will not stay running, weak low idle. Inside the carb was a green crystaly substance. It was rock hard and made cleaning more tedious. Anyhow I removed all the crystal deposits, Cleaned and re-lubed seals, pins, and fuel needle. Mower fired right up on the first try. Why does the gas with no other additives added turn into these crystals? I have never seen anything like this before. I always thought and previously seen fuel evaporate not crystallize? And now working on the pressure washer. Thanks for the informative videos!!  

  18. I had a fuel restriction problem on my B&S 3.75 power washer model 10H902. It would run for 3 seconds after priming then die. Carb diaphragm on this engine wears out but it looked OK so I soaked the plastic gas pick up tube and screen in paint thinner (didn't have anything stronger) for 24 hours. Blew out the thinner with a compressor, reassembled. Starts and runs great.

  19. Don't show enough of the actual work that needs done. IE: carb is still gunked up needs to be cleaned/wiped off – magic it's clean now. Appreciate you're video, but there are some people like myself that need that little bit more visual instruction. Thanks.

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