BRIGGS CARB REBUILD



Tools and supplies: http://astore.amazon.com/ldullc-20
My Landscaping Website: http://www.landdesigns.com/
My Chainsaw and Wood Splitting website: http://sawsandsplitters.com/

Working on my chipper shredder engine today. It has a 5 hp Briggs and Stratton Horizontal shaft motor. I’ll take you through the process of removing the carburetor, cleaning the carburetor and installing the carburetor back on the engine.

This video will help you avoid some of the common mistakes made as you watch me make them.

Good luck on your project!

Donyboy Showing the Linkage Configuration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hK2sZjavTaw
Michael Lovely Showing how to Clean the Carburetor; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dbfz7J2M0SE
sblg43 Showing the Linkage Configuration: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6q8WEp5qV0o

Words that may help you find this video:
Briggs ans Stratton Carburetor Rebuild
Briggs carb Rebuild
Briggs carb kit
Briggs carb parts

source

(3)

39 Replies to “BRIGGS CARB REBUILD”

  1. John, nice intro about your Grandfather,   Unlike you, I would have spent 30 bucks on parts and cleaners, 60 bucks on beer and take 2 weekends to complete the same job…… Plus I would have a mystery part left over…….Nice Job.

  2. i have seen ppl run a surging motor with 50/50 mix of gas and seafoam to clean out the carb.
    hmm after the disassembly and cleaning. maybe get some of that fuel injector carb cleaner that you put in the gas tank of your car?? don't have to go crazy with the stuff, just enough to keep it clean.

  3. Just wanted to thank you for the video! Got a Sears power washer for free and it has the exact same engine! Never took a small engine apart before. Followed your video and it started right up! So for the $14 gasket kit and a little time, I have a $250 power washer thanks to you!

  4. Really Helpful Video! After overhauling the carburetor, the tiller now purrs like a kitten–thanks for your pointers! Be sure to check for cracks on the pick-up tube, mine was cracked and needed to be replaced (it fell off as I was getting ready to put it back in the tank). If you need tips on replacing this, please let me know–as it's a challenge. Also, the gas tank was filthy so I had to clean it—first with white vinegar…left in tank for a week, then immediately flushed out with two stroke oil and gasoline and then filled with non-ethanol gasoline to hopefully prevent flash rust and gum/varnish buildup in the future. Couple other useful sites I reviewed: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TicyV3RE2Fo and http://cx500forum.com/forum/technical-help-forum/25011-gas-tank-rust-inide-2.html

  5. thanks for this video. i just rebuilt the carb on my friend's log splitter in exchange for the use of said splitter for a couple of weeks. your video helped out a great deal. goodbye pile of logs, hello firewood! ?

  6. Outstanding Video…gave me confidence to do the job myself rather than paying someone to do it! Had not realized that leaving gas with ethanol in the tank over the winter/extended time causes gunk to buildup in the tank. Also, learned there are places that sell non-ethanol gas to prevent this from happening. I watched this video as I have a tiller with the same fuel tank/carb. that needs rebuilt. The only thing I was unable to see is where the spring goes on the backside lower section of the tank. When I pulled my tank off, this spring was dangling. So if anyone has a good pic of where to connect this spring, that'd be great.

  7. Thank you for showing, i think its really cool how you thought of your Grandfather, i also never met my Grandfather, he passed when my Dad was only 11 yrs old.
    The air adjustment screw can be installed on most, if you take that cap off and order the kit to install, not all can be done this way, like you were told, most of these small engines were designed to use for 3 yrs and then trash, if the Engineering don't do it, the Gas will, its sad where America has gone on any kind of quality control or pride in what we make, its all about the Greed!!!
    Thanks Again and God bless my Brother.

  8. If anyone is looking for the parts diagram for this carb just Google "1134 e1" there are a number of parts sites that come up. Select one and choose diagram for the "Carburetor group." You can check local lawnmower repair shops for part #s to see if they have parts in stock. if they don't, many times they'll order them for you to the shop with free shipping.

  9. Excellent Video! Thank you for making it! My 1992 5HP MTD chipper/shredder has virtually the same carb. There should also be a foam filter inside the cover that requires washing and re-oiling. Before disassembly, download the exploded parts diagrams for the engine from part supplier websites. They are a big help during reassembly.

  10. Hello Thanks a lot for the video.
    I need to change the gaskets and the diaphragm of my concrete machine which have a Briggs&Stratton 3,5 Hp Horizontal Linkage modele:91232 Type:1363 E1 Code:980513FA. Do you know the numbers for the gaskets and diaphragm kit.
    Thank you for your reply.

  11. Hi, nice video !So I have the same motor on a rear tine tiller. Bought the same part you showed here and disassembled everything and cleaned up and it seems it only wants to start now when the tiller has been sitting for awhile. If i turn it off and try again it won't. The only way to get it going is to take off the airbox and it starts up.Also when the tiller is under load in dirt it sounds great but with tines above soil or sitting still running it sounds just like yours did before you repaired it…..any ideas ? thanks.

  12. Hi, I have a Briggs/Stratton mower and the oil from the crankcase is
    pouring into the carby through the breather hose, thus when it runs
    there is enough smoke to fill the neighborhood can you advise the cause
    of this thank you in advance

  13. I just got around to rebuilding my identical carb on a rototiller. Again, this video was very useful as a reference. I did take some still snapshots, though, also for reference but I found that references weren't really necessary because things sort of fall into place during reassembly. The screw you mentioned that someone told you was the adjustment screw was the same as yours. That is, it didn't have a needle point and it was screwed in fully. In other words, there's no adjustment with this carb except for the idle speed stop adjustment. For someone else doing this job with this carb, you might want to just buy the gaskets and diaphragm as in this video because the only thing that you can use from the rebuild kit for this carb are those gaskets and the diaphragm. The rest of the parts are for other engines. The kit appears to be a universal kit for several engine types so don't pay a lot for the complete kit.

    I didn't find it necessary to remove the gas tank but I knew in advance that my gas tank was clean and that was confirmed when I took the carb off. That said, I would remove the gas tank as was done in this video if the gas tank was dirty. It's not much more work to remove the tank and carb as done here.

    Small point: You don't have to disconect the kill wire. Just swing the control panel out of the way with the wire still attached. No big deal either way.

    The problem with my engine was that I had to take off the air cleaner and prime the carb to start it but once it was started, it ran fine. It's been doing that since not too long after I bought it. I think the diaphragm was the culprit so, if that condition happens again, I'll first replace the diaphragm and that can be done easily in just a few minutes without removing the carb or having to disconnect anything. The reason I say that is the car appeared to be clean (although I cleaned it anyway) but the diaphram was pretty distorted. I'm guessing there was a leak in the old diaphragm and it wasn't sucking gas when trying to start it. Just a guess.

    I think I mentioned this previously but this is an excellent video and it's very clear and easy to follow. Good work!

  14. Very well done! Sometimes people that are new to something make the best teachers. Experts often go too fast and assume the people they're teaching know more than they do. Also, some experts seem like their main goal is to try to impress rather than teach. Your video quality is excellent and very clearly done.

    A tip that you might want to consider in the future: It's helpful to put screws back in the holes when removing things, when possible, so you don't end up with a pile of screws and have to remember where they all go. For example, the four screws that held your diaphragm could have been partially screwed back in when you removed the cover plate, etc. Making a habit of that can make reassembly much easier and less confusing. Of course, you will have screws that must be removed and left out while doing the work but any that can be screwed back in temporarily simplify the job.

    One great thing for you is that if you had a problem rememering how something went back together, you had your excellent video to refer to. In fact, I'm going to be rebuilding my identical carb soon and I'm saving a link to your video in case I can't remember something when putting things back together.

    Thanks for posting this.

  15. Thanks for making the video. I got a tiller with a 5hp B&S that's gunked up for sitting too. It runs bout starves for fuel. I 've torn in to it once but didn't change out that diaphragm gasket yet. The inside of the tank has the coating peeling off against the carb pick up tube. How can you clean a tank through a little hole?

  16. Good video on how to from a person who is just like most who do this for the first time. I have a Craftsman chipper and believe has a 5HP B&S motor on it. So this video will come in handy when I start to rebuild the carb. Rama

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *