34 thoughts on “Briggs Coil Magneto Magnetron installation tips

  1. @ Wendell Day Too bad you blew good money on a points style coil. If the guy who sold it to you had any brains he would have sold you a Magnatron coil that eliminates the points. About the same price. Maybe you can return and swap it but not likely. "No refunds on electrical".
    I don't see why anybody bothers with Briggs points anymore. The fact that Briggs and Stratton eliminated points in the early '80's should say something.

  2. @tony00165 You are not sharpening the chain right. Have it done by a saw shop and note how it looks before using. Sharpen same way. Keep in mind, a lot of small engine shops haven't a clue on how to sharpen a lawn mower blade, much less a chain (39 years…I've seen the idiots) Make sure the chain never touches the ground. Some wood could have dirt (in bark) nails (tree huggers) and don't cut R.R. ties with a chain saw. A sharp chain should last at least 1/2 hour if not (too) abused.

  3. Thanks for helping out here Bro! One thing about converting is that the polarity of the magnet on the flywheel is "supposed to be" re-polarized at the factory to work correctly with the Magnetrons, but I've made the switch and had no problems. Thanks again for chiming in. An other alternative is buying a points eliminator if your coil is still good. Napa sells them for around $15.00 and I swear by them in these older engines. But I'm also old school. If the engine will run on points, I use them.

  4. thanks i used a card it worked great cood not find the gages so i used it on the pionts to runs a lot better thans so much

  5. Hey, Zippo! Can you explain why donyboy73 and sixtyfiveford have blocked me from their videos just because I tell them they are doing things the wrong way? For example, donyboy makes a big production out of replacing a starter rope by damn near removing the pulley. I told him you remove the old rope. Pre-wind the pulley and use the spring to suck in the new rope. He says that's too hard for the "novice" when it's actually the easiest (and correct) way. Comments? daviddaveinternational@gmail.com

  6. See, folks? Here's a guy who does it right. I saw one video where the guy set the coil gap not on the magnets! Just on the aluminum. I told him he did it wrong so I guess he's the next ignorant "how-to" video guy to block me. Take it from me: I started this small engine thing in 1973 so I have a clue. I'm still learning, too. When someone offers help, by ignoring (or blocking) shows that professionalism is not your forte. Just another filthy garage idiot. Trust the professional career guy.

  7. Hey, Zippo. I notice you don't wear gloves. The "How-to" guys who block me wear gloves. Know why? Scared to get dirty. If you are scared to get dirty, find something else to do.

  8. First off, I thoroughly enjoyed all of your comments and I agree with you 100%. I DO wear gloves sometimes, but most of the time, what you are needing to do with these small engines requires the dexterity of bare hands. As for why the nimrods block you….they don't want their lack of competence to be announced. I'm like you….always learning new things, but when I'm wrong, I ALWAYS Admit it and even poke fun at my self. Keep on Keepin on buddy. Cheers!!! Zip

  9. great video,great info!….i do have a question about the coils.i have an old tecumseh oh160 with the"solid state ignition".if know i have a bad coil can it be replaced with one of these magnatron styles?

  10. There are a number of factors to think about. Polarity of the magnets, diameter of the flywheel, positive or negative ground system and so on. The likely hood that one brand of coil will work on another brand of engine is slim, but, you never know unless you try! I'm all for experimentation, but if I'm in a pinch and need an engine to run, I don't mix and match. I hope this helps! Cheers!!

  11. On certain engines, this is possible if the lead wires are long enough, but it would be noticeable with the extreme offset from the alignment of the magnet to the coil/magneto.

  12. I installed a Briggs Magnetron on a 7 hp 190432 engine and still no spark. The engine is 40 years old. It feels like the flywheel magnet is strong, but the magnet area on the flywheel is shorter than on another smaller Briggs I looked at. MIght there be something wrong with my flywheel?

  13. The problem is that when you upgraded to a Magnetron from a basic coil, the existing flywheels magnets are not properly polarized to work with the Magnetron. You need to send your flywheel in to Briggs and Stratton to have it properly polarized. Hope this info helps!

  14. I read about the magnet not properly polarized but I had a mechanic friend look at that and appears to be OK. Looks like I did something really dumb, I attached one of the wires that attaches to the unit to the engine grounding it out. This engine just uses the metal piece about the spark plug to kill it.

  15. I used to do this with a matchbook cover too as a kid.I found a lawnmower in the trash heap when I turned 16 with no spark and that was all it needed.That mower kept gas in my tank and kept me out of trouble for awhile.I got so good at doing that I could get it pretty well just eyeballing it.

    Do they make this type of coil for a 23-D like the type you had bored out .20 over?I'd like to get rid of the need for points and the points eliminator.Just the coil bolted up and bingo she runs.

  16. hi there a have the same biggs and stratton 16hp engine and it has the magneto/alternator on it, the engine does not have any points on the it,–like i saw the ones that you had replaced in another video– and found that interesting, but does it still need the points since it has the magneto already? also i have spark but it backfires like every 10 seconds and wont start? any tips for these 2 questions?. thanks. nice video.

  17. Good Video Zippo, I have the same briggs n stratton 8hp did just what you did here still no fire ? cleaned mag,cleaned points n set to 20thou, any ideas not to familiar with briggs. Thanks

  18. It sounds as though the coil may be defective. If it's new, then I would invest 15 bucks in a points eliminator that is VERY easy to install in place of the points and so long as the coil is good, you will get spark. Also, Always start with a new spark plug. I take a magnet, clean off the top of a head bolt to make sure I get a good connection, and with the spark plug out of the engine but attached to the coil wire, I set the spark plug on the magnet and turn the engine over to inspect spark.

  19. Part 2: You may need to float the points open or closed while cranking the engine over to obtain the best spark. Simply do ad stated in the first replay with the spark plug, then adjust the points while cranking the engine and see if you can get a spark. Some points may be best set at .022, some at .018 or somewhere in between. .020 is a starting point. Best of wishes and I hope you get her running! Cheers!!

  20. I have a older 10hp Briggs & Stratton on my logsplitter. I changed out the points with a magnetron. I am having a couple of problems. I get it to run, but it misses an pops flames sometimes through the muffler.
    I could pull start it when it had points, but now with the magnetron it seems it has to be spun faster before if will start.
    Any comments on my problems???

  21. Did you send in your flywheel to have it properly polarized to work with the Magnetron coil? This is a must in order to get the engine to run properly. A cheaper alternative is to put the old coil back in and purchase a 15 dollar points eliminator. I've seen your problem many times over the years where the coil was swapped out but the flywheel wasn't sent in to correct the polarity to work with the new coil.

  22. …is the tab on a new coil for the grounding out? …impressive first-pull start…I tied that to the on-off key but it won't turn off.  Does either of the mounting bolts have to be grounded also?  My arms were sheared off and put them back on with JB Weld but they are not now grounded with the engine block. BTW, JB was the only product that was hard enough to prevent the arms from flexing when the magnet came around.

  23. on my second NEW coil (Oreillys) and still no fire,,any ideas,,all grounds have been disconnected, B&S 12HP flat head 281707

  24. and,,i rewired a simple ign,,toggle,button so there are no safety switches on the tractor,,also,,if the diode is bad on the one wire altenator will it short out/sparks?

  25. I am wondering , on the magnetron, there is a little silver button, under the coil, when you install the mag, is that button on the right, as the flywheel comes around, or the left ?

  26. Thanks for another great video Zippo.

    Connected by a wire tab thingy on the new armature there are two long wires, one has a brass connector and the other is bare.

    I'm pretty sure the one with the connector is connected to the bolt sticking out of the block, just behind and to the left of the armature, but can you tell me where the bare one is supposed to be connected?

  27. Question here. I have an old Briggs generator it used the points and condenser system. I would like to know if I can replace that coil with one of the newer coils that does not require the points and condenser? If I can what modification do I need to make?

  28. My neighbor asked me to get a lincoln welder running that had belonged to his dad and had not been run in over ten years. He said that he had it running intermittentley. It would run very rough when it did run. He had new points and condenser for it but when I removed the point cover I discovered that the points were only run to ground. I pulled the flywheel cover and noticed that it had a coil for electronic ignition on it. One with the brass contact on the module. I check the flywheel polarity and it was north to south. I sent the flywheel to briggs to be repolarised south to north. I installed the flywheel with a new magnetron key, even though it is no different than the original. As soon as I hit the starter it was running like a top. When it kicked down to low idol it began running rich but before I could get it adjusted it died. I adjusted the idol jet and tried restarting it. When I did it would not start and was producing exhaust but it was backfiring through the carb as if it is out of time. I pulled the flywheel and the key and both keyway are in perfect shape. I did check the flywheel and it is south to north. Thee engine numbers are 326437. 0363-01. 8011191

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