17 Replies to “Briggs Flywheel Removal Methods”

  1. You are welcome, I have had to resort to that method a few times, since each engine design is different, so 1 tool doesn't always work out. The trick is to apply equal force on each side.

  2. charger got a good mine to look up valve jobs before i do one i did one years ago so i am rusty you got a vid of that from the past to me valves and the springs are the final frontier

  3. i have a question what size socket is that nut at the end i need to take mine off because the engine i have is not siezed it will go in reverse easy but i have to use two hands to make it go forward i opened up the head to see if the piston was stuck and the piston wall was bad but i stuck my fingers in there and rubbed to see it was smoother the throttle leaver on this lawn mower is jammed but i dont know whats wrong so maybe this will help me

  4. Yeah – don't do it this way guys. Instead on a briggs 12 hp and smaller smack the rim of the flywheel aiming your blow straight into the center of the crankshaft. It might take 5 or 6 first time you do it. The reason this works is the short fat taper B&S uses. On aluminum flywheels be certain you are tapping the non-magnet side. On iron flywheels it seemed to help to have just enough prybar pry to hold the endplay in the crankshaft to the flywheel side. Again: Don't hit the magnets. 12hp and up you ought use a briggs puller with the two bolts and the hole in the center but don't tighten it super tight. Just good and firm. Then also use the prybar and radial healthy taps and she'll come off.

  5. Oh, yeah – forgot. If you get a stubborn aluminum flywheel, if you shoot a little penetrating oil on the shaft/wheel boundary and then cook it a minute with a butane torch it helps loosen it.

  6. Is there a quick/easy way to install the flywheel and tighten the starter clutch without the $30 Briggs tool? Sheared a flywheel key replaced it and thought it was tight enough and sheared the new one on the first run.

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