Briggs & Stratton 5550 Watt Generator Carburetor Repair

I show you how to clean the Nikki Carburetor on this 10 hp generator.

Go to Glen’s video (IFIXIT4U) to see what inspired this project:

If you are interested in how to wire it into your power panel with an interlock switch go to my other videos: (Interlock Switch) (Inlet Box) (Cable Connector)



23 thoughts on “Briggs & Stratton 5550 Watt Generator Carburetor Repair

  1. Thank you for the video. Perfect step by step detail and exactly what I needed. Had my generator up and running in less than an hour!

  2. I've started my generator 2 times since cleaning the carburetor and it started on the first or second pull!  I am still debating putting in an inline gasoline filter, however.

  3. Thanks for this vid! I have this generator and I forgot about it and it sat around for a year. Sucker wouldn't start. I followed your steps and I got it working and I'm not even mechanically inclined. Lord knows what a repairman would have charged me.

    Thanks again John!

  4. Hi there ! I yousualy never let my gasmotors run dry of gas , there is normaly a crane to cut of the gas and when i am storing my generator i turn the crane of and let the motor run until it stops. When the motor stops it has become a vacum in the fuel line and the carburator is still full of gas , when the vacum is there the gas dont clog becourse there is no oxygen in the gas area in the carburator

  5. Test started my Generator today and it started right up.  So, my cleaning job is still working!  Have not had to use the generator yet this year but ready in case.

  6. Could somebody please explain how to detach or separate the choke end from the exhaust hose plate. Do I just pull it up from carb or does the "choke lever or handle" used to open and close the choke snap off? Thanks for the help!!!!

  7. I have the identical portable generator featured on your video and I need to do a carb rebuild. It is a NIKKI carb with the number 697978 stamped on it.

    I have searched the internet but have not been successful in locating the rebuild kit (float, needle valve, bowl gasket, etc).

    By any chance, do you have any idea where to find the carb rebuild kit for this carb model number or the replacement Nikki model number 591378?

    I would hate to pay $90 for a new carb when I could possibly rebuild it.


  8. This was just what I needed. Same carb, same generator. Wouldn't start. Cleaned these ports and a little starting fluid, started and ran like a champ. Thanks!

  9. I have the same Generator and went to try and start it and it's seized up. Took the pull cord off thinking maybe it was jammed, but no. Took the oil cap off stuck my finger in the oil and it had fuel mixed with the oil. I've been doing a little research and this seems to happen a lot with these B&S. My question is if I drain all the oil out should the motor unseized? From what I understand the float gets stuck open and floods the cylinder with fuel and the fuel seeps past the rings and fills the bottom end making it seemed locked up. Please any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks

  10. You mentioned you let the gasoline run out when you shut it down last time. Is that good or bad? I was told to let the engine run and turn off the fuel so it all burns out and basically empties the carb. Should I not do this? I try to use Ethanol free fuel whenever I can get it.

  11. i lost a part of my carburator float needle sit fuel over flooded the chamber will you tell me where i can buy carburator assembly model #01919 10 hp OHV type. gasoline 5550 watts hoe much i'am from Philippine Manila

  12. Just got a Coleman Powermate 6250 generator and though i cleaned everything out of the carb. Well i missed the hole where the spring went. Thanks for the video, still useful nearly 3 years later.

  13. I have a B&S p/n 030471 8000 electric start I bought NEW, only 11 hours on it. Went to use this year and fuel began to pour out around the are where the carb mounts to the engine. 1st, cleaned out tank 2nd, cleaned out the fuel shutoff valve screen, 3rd pulled solenoid BELOW the carb, the brass plunger was cruddy, took dremel tool with wire brish attachment and cleaned it where it would slide in and out of the solenoid freely. 4th pulled the plug that the sol. screwed into, cleaned it the same way and blowed out with compressed air 5th cleaned out the bowl 6th worked the float up and down to see if it worked freely, it did, reassembled and still same problem. ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS???

  14. Once you get past the shaky camera, this video was enormously useful to me (being new to tear apart carburetors). It skips a couple of minor points (align the choke valve to the run position and it pops off if you pull it straight up, be careful and dump out the gas in the carb), but otherwise was great. I too thought that running the generator dry was enough to keep it stored for the season, but the tiniest bit of (ethanol?) gel was enough to knock my engine offline. Thanks for posting this video, it worked the first pull!

  15. You go from using a 5/32 socket wrench to unscrew the bolts attaching the carburetor to the body of the generator but don't illustrate how to remove the carburetor which as far as I can tell is firmly attached still. What gives?

  16. Brother, you oughta try an ultrasonic parts cleaner with 50/50 pinesol and water set at 80 Celcius for 10 minutes… 40,000 hertz with two transducers…. its wonderful… Ive gotten one way valves on zamas working again like new… check it out

  17. That jet is what clog's and stops it from running. Use some stuff you use in gas to keep it from going bad.But still cut off the gas and run it till it cuts off. But that port where you found the gunk is the problem. I have a 10 hp Briggs and Stratton genny and the times it wouldn't start, that's the problem. Other than that, there's not much more to go wrong.
    Just keep gas extender in the fuel.
    I like the way you described the gas "crappy gas " Sounds like a brand "CRAPPY GAS ", well most of them are.

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