Briggs & Stratton Clean Change Points small 5hp plus more

This will help you clean or replace points and condenser on small Briggs. Larger 8hp 10hp etc Briggs are Virtually identical.

Larger Briggs points

Set points to .020″ gap



36 thoughts on “Briggs & Stratton Clean Change Points small 5hp plus more

  1. My dad wants to find a wiring diagram for points on briggs and stratton 14hp. Do you know where I can find one?

  2. It is orange looks just like the motor in your video unfortunately the serial and model numbers are not visible because the plate has been damaged it is on a Montgomery ward generator. I told the guy to drop it off and I would see what I can do for him

  3. My friend has a 5 h.p. Briggs and Stratton claims it has new coil, and new points still no spark but I think the marijuana got in the way the coil looks old I bet it is the coil. I know there is a coil, points, and condenser no spark means one or more of the 3 are bad

  4. You mention in the beggining of the video Briggs made a 2hp and up maybe a 1.5hp.
    This guy I know has an old Briggs from the 50's and the engine he has its like a 1,1/4 or 1,3/4.
    I forget exactly but it wasnt a 1.5. It was a real odd ball hp wise and small less than 2. Are those rare?
    He only wanted 10 bucks for the thing, it isnt in the greatest shape, but its pretty much all their and that odd hp tag is still on it. Should I grab that the next time I see it for rarity maybe a little value to it more than the $10 he wants? I'd basically be saving it because it just sits their….
    In fact come to think of it, it was like a 1, 1/8 horsepower, a real oddball and Ive never seen an engine with an hp rating like that.

  5. I have a few of these engines, most have magnetron ignition, but I had a winter version of one of these engines from 1979, the sno-gard. I decided to delete the points and put an electronic ignition coil on. Since its a winter engine its better off, wont have to worry about moisture from snow getting in and fouling out the points, plus I'll never have to worry about the points going bad again. It made life easier too, because I didn't have to remove that clutch or flywheel. I just snipped the one wire removed the old coil, put the new coil on, done runs like a champ.

  6. do I need to worry about or set top dead center when re- installing the flywheel? and I need .020 when the points are fully open or closed?

  7. Thank you! Gave me confidence and the skills to fix my workhorse of a rototiller! Also appreciated your video about how points and condensers work. Thanks again!

  8. +sixtyfiveford hi mate i see your comment below i have a brigs n stratton trojan 2.5 i took it apart as it was running sluggish like cutting out then it did completely cut out and wouldt start so i thought a petrol problem i took carb out and i think it was the tubevwith gauze that goes from tank to carb was blocked anyway i put it back together and im not getting a spark ive cleaned the fly wheel set the magneto correctly and a new sparkplug and still no spark could it be the points or what is the problem as your comment says its not the points?? Thnks

  9. Ebay… The nice thing about briggs is you can simply bolt on a non points coil and your good to go. No need to touch the points or remove them. There are 2 sizes of coils, one for the larger 8hp+ and a smaller one for the 2-5hp.

  10. Another great video.I have a Craftsman EAGER 1 Mower.It has a 6 HP Tecumseh. Will start sometimes & then stall. Have to wait a couple of minutes & prime , the same. I Though it was the Carburetor cleaned it up but the same. It does the same with starter fluid. I checked the fly wheel & the key alignment looked like it was off a little. The key is not sheared but has a very slight bend hard to see. Is this enough to have a no start?

  11. @Paul Rockach the engine Model, Type and Code numbers are located on the large engine housing (starter recoil on the front of it). They are typically on the left hand side by the carb. A flashlight at an angle in the dark lets you see the stamped numbers.

  12. Going to have to try this with an old tiller that I picked up for 20 bucks. I saw it run when I bought it. The following season I had no spark. It should be a fun weekend project.

  13. I have a video up of how to do this style carb. Go to my videos and it is the one titled "Horizontal Briggs Carb Rebuild part 1 of 2" and 2 of2. . It is more than likely the little diaphragm on the side of the carb.

  14. great video, it helped me out with getting spark back to my motor. it runs now but only if i pour a little gas in the carb, after that gas is used up it dies. do you know what the problem is? i cleaned out the pick up lines with carb cleaner still nothing. could you possibly make a video showing me how to rebuild the carb or tell me how to solve my problem so it'll just start without me having to prime the carb. any help would be greatly appreciated.

  15. @babennewport There are several parts. Assuming the main nut/housing is screwed onto the crank shaft: first put the the middle piece that spins on the shaft back onto the crankshaft(light oiling like tranny fluid is a good idea). Then place the balls back into the recessed spots (may have to tip the engine on it side so they stay). Finally put the metal disc back over the entire assembly. You can view my other video "briggs rope start clutch service" where I show you how to.

  16. great video. while i was taking the screen off that's attached to the flywheel on my 3hp it separated that spinning mechanism and the balls or bearings came out. can it be salvaged, i can't figure out how to seal the two haves. Thanks

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