Briggs & Stratton Intek 23hp V-Twin Teardown and Rebuild



Watch as this Husqvarna riding mower with a Briggs & Stratton 23hp V-Twin engine that has no compression, get torn down and rebuilt. See what damage could happen when you don’t change the oil and/or don’t add oil to your engine.

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22 thoughts on “Briggs & Stratton Intek 23hp V-Twin Teardown and Rebuild

  1. I am going thru the EXACT same rebuild, except my bent cam broke both halves of the engine!! Also had to get a different crank as it was quite scored. Also got another piston with connecting rod. With complete gasket kit I'm somewhere between $200-$250 for parts.
    I didn't have any luck sourcing a decent used engine, and a new engine with a warranty is certainly not in my budget. We will see how this Franken-engine goes…
    Hope to assemble tomorrow. 🤞
    Btw, a lot of hating going on about your rebuild. Not from me. Some of us are on a budget, and rebuilding your own to get some more life out of it is nowhere like doing it professionally for a customer, and should not be compared to that. I guess you would hope that folks would be smart enough to realize that, but……. 🤷‍♂️

  2. Hi there, just wondering if you've ever come across this problem before, I purchased a brand new Ferris 400s zero turn with a briggs 23hp commercial v twin, i am noticing a film of oil that seems to be getting flung everywhere after each use, even after wiping it down spotless it seems to come back again. Oil reaches as far as the front of the deck to the rear of the mower. The oil is never collected thick in one spot, it just seems to be a film that goes everywhere. Doesn't seem to be any oil on the exterior of the engine but cannot say for certain on the very bottom of the sump due to the engine bolts down to the base frame of the mower. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

  3. I I agree with all the other comments you should replace everything brand new you piston connecting rod connecting rod Journal everything take no chances

  4. Had the same engine nuke on me last year. I thought I had reversed the jets and caused a harmonic imbalance but now I'm not so sure that was the killer. It was a free mower that had a leaking pan seal and the lady who owned it had questionable oil fill principles.

  5. Surprised there were so many compromises in this repair. Just asking for a major failure again unless this is an experiment to see how long a cheap repair will last.

  6. Disclaimer…..This comment is only Constructive criticism, and not meant to insult you in any way. Any damage to any internal/external component, both obvious and potentially obvious (upper connecting rod journal, head, valve guides and their seals) would have been inspected and/or replaced in my shop. Things you neglected to check…Valve Guide Lift (very, very common with the Intek Twins), crank journal for BOTH Cylinders. The lower journal WAS what dried out and caused the failure….what makes you confident that the top connecting rod journal wasn't also scored and a time bomb? You're not, because you didn't fully disassemble the engine. Are you a true store front? Certified? Did you inspect at least the journal on the blown connecting rod? Gauge it for being in Spec? The video is fraught with inaccuracies, important missed steps, improper procedures and lack of proper gauging of all parts. With the loss of a connecting rod, the entire engine should have been disassembled, hot tanked, magnafluxed (To check for stress fractures in the block), honed (to deglaze the bores that MUST have gotten over heated) and reinstalling that piston? Seriously? I left that for last because it's been mentioned many many times already. Being a certified Briggs and Stratton Technician, all I could do was cringe at what was NOT checked. Does the engine run? Yep….But it IS a ticking time bomb. I hope you stand behind your work DIY. Lastly…valve adjusting…you ALWAYS preload your engine by running it and recheck the gap on the rockers. It always changes. I can go on and on and on here….But I think you get the point. Much of this video has misled people to think this repair was a good one (by viewing the thumbs up), but in reality, you should take it down to help viewers from making the same mistakes you've made. You only replaced destroyed pieces to get the engine to start. You didn't even clean the entire engine externally to inspect the block for damage. Let us know how long the engine lasts DIY. Zip~

  7. Why spend the time and money to do what you did but not replace the piston with a broken skirt? If the piston doesnt fall apart the imbalance will do a number elsewhere. And almost as bad is not cleaning out the case to get 100% of the metal out. By the time that first oil change any chips will go thru the oil pump ruining surfaces and killing pressure or killing any bearing surface. For another $20 for a new piston and some solvent or best a total tear down, you would have had a reliable salvaged engine, done this way waste of money time bomb!

  8. Nice video. I have same engine on Craftsman. I kind of agree with others on piston. I have found the time to change the oil drain plug is when engine is off. It’s a bitch to fix once in frame. Also I liked how you focused on governor. If not in right position, the engine will idle at high speed when started.

  9. I don't think all that debris going into air intake on the test run was good for it. I also thought the valve lash adjusted needed the locks to be torqued to a spec value.

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