12 thoughts on “Briggs Valve Adjustment

  1. sorry it is hard to show that when holding the camera lmao but what u do is get the screw driver the should be a figure 8 hole in the clip one hole is bigger than the other and u push the clip up an onto the bigger hole and release the valve.

  2. It has been over 20 years since I have done a valve job on an engine. This has brought back many fond memories. I am about to do a valve job on a tiller engine and needed a refresher course to make sure that I remembered everything.

  3. Yeah it wasn't a great vid technically but very helpful. I was looking at mine and scratching my head wondering WTF…how do you adjust these valves lol.
    So thanks it was very helpful.

  4. This is a helpful video. I would, however, like to add that IF you know the valves are working well and in good shape, and only need adjusting, you do not need to remove the valves to do this. It takes longer than you might think to file off .001 to .003 with a file so with the video method, you will be removing and reinstalling them several times for sure. A bench grinder I would not do. Likely you'd take too much off the valve stem right away, then be screwed.

    My method: With the head off, turn the engine over until one of the valves is wide open. Then check the clearance of the OTHER valve to see how much you need to remove. Turn the engine over again until the valve you are going to adjust is wide open. Look around for a couple small pieces of flexible plastic or nylon that will fit snugly between the valve and the seat [one on each side of the valve head] to keep it open. Turn the engine over until the other valve is wide open, push the tappet down on the valve you are adjusting and you will be able to slide in a narrow file in there to file off what you need from the stem. Use a file that is sharp and in good condition. Then spray out any filings from the chamber with brake clean, spin it over to push the tappet back up, pull out your plastic blocks and recheck your clearance. Repeat if you are still not within specs.

    I know my explanation is long winded, but this goes very fast and easy. By the time you do just one, you can zip right along. It's a "piece of cake".


  5. This video is wrong on where the piston has to be! The piston has to be 1/4" or 6.35mm below TDC after the power stroke to account for the decompression notch on the cam on the exhaust valve side! If this is not done correctly then your valve clearance will be out! If you get this wrong you may have problems starting the motor due to the exhaust valve not opening and decompressing the engine especially when it is cold!!!

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *