Clean And Repair Nikki Carburetors on Intek Engines



How to clean and repair a Nikki carburetor on a Briggs and Stratton Intek Engine. Almost all Nikki carburetors are the same on 12 – 20hp single cylinder Intek engines. Not to be confused with The Walbro LMT carburetor also used on Intek engines.

Nikki carburetors are very sensitive to debris and clogged passages, it only takes a little buildup to cause surging. This is how to clean the carburetor to enshure it runs properly, No carburetor cleaner or chemicals required.
I used two pieces of wire for cleaning, one is a piece of bailing wire, the other is a strand from a broken winch cable. You can use a piece from a wire wheel if you don’t have any.
Parts used:
Float Bowl gasket (I call it a base gasket) – B&S # 698781
Float Needle Valve – B&S # 696136
A complete overhaul kit is available, however It costs more and often includes parts that don’t require replacement.

Briggs and stratton surging rough sputtering fix repair clean gunk junk

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26 thoughts on “Clean And Repair Nikki Carburetors on Intek Engines

  1. Outstanding video thanks I did not know where the Main jet went and could not find any other video that covered it even on the Briggs & Station site does not show you Now its running great thank so much for your video.

  2. In the repair manual, it notes that there is a spring between the plastic body and the carb bowl, but I swear when i took mine apart there wasn't one.  Either that or it's gone forever.  I see that yours doesn't have a spring.  Do some versions of the carb not have one?

    I also swear that my main jet fell out when I removed the solenoid with the carb still assembled.  I did not put it back in the top for that reason, but I think that was wrong, based on your video.  Thanks for the help!

  3. PERFECT! This was an excellent video/tutorial. It told me exactly what I needed to know and gave me the confidence to proceed with cleaning the carb. Turns out my carb was full of jelly-like debris. I cleaned everything up, reassembled and engine runs perfectly. No more surging, just a nice running old engine. Thank you so much!

  4. The main jet little brass came out as I was cleaning the carb. One side has little ridges, the other side is smooth. Which way does it have to face when reinserting it back into the main jet?

  5. Hi. how dose the main jet go back in the tube???,,,,dose the oring go in first ???,,,,or dose the flat head go in first,,,,,,my fell out,,,,thanks

  6. If you reassemble the carb and try a restart ; With ( No Start ) And It does not leak , ( unhook Crank vent hose to look for fuel) . IF no fuel , and you can unscrew the solinoid and know fuel is there , your in good shape .
    Next As you crank the motor to start it /un screw the solinoid by hand . After a turn or so ; it starts
    Try shimming Down the solinoid with a copper washer 1/16" or so . This is a patch for the weak solinoid
    But Adds direction . If no overnite leaks leave it . if it leaks get new solinoid .

  7. Not my problem exactly, mines a 24 hp but the principle is the same. The in formation all applied. I was thinking this was my problem also. We shall see. Thanks

  8. I'm actually repairing one of these right now. I have a spring in my bowl right above and center with the solenoid at the bottom of the bowl. I didn't see a single spring in your video here but we have absolutely identical carbs. what could this be? previous small engine mechanic mistake?

  9. well, i ordered the kit, rebuilt it, cleaned it up and still flooded, took it off like 4 times, but today i found my problem, there's a little hole in the carb body right by the float lol after i opened it and cleaned it up it ran fine

  10. Never use a wire to clean jets,you risk enlarging the orifice.The best thing is a cat's whisker,really,stiff enough to remove the gunk but won't damage the jet.

  11. pfun41, thank you for your video. I did want to make a small suggestion which could prevent a load of stress to anyone doing this repair. Mind you, this is NOT a criticism of your video. It is merely a tip which I had to learn the hard way. At 2:50 in your video you have removed and cleaned the small main jet and you set it down on your work bench. At about 3:17 in your video you are blowing the carb off with compressed air. You will notice here the gaskets inadvertently blowing off the work surface. This is not a problem if you are replacing them, however, that main jet was still lying there beside the fuel transfer plate. My tip is this: secure that main jet before you hit the compressed air. As I have already stated, I had to learn this lesson the hard way. I carelessly blew that main jet away and I have yet to find it. That was about a year ago. Yes, I had to buy another one. Anyway, thank you again for your video.

  12. I have several of these carbs. You don't show inserting the SEAT into the plastic base. This can cause and often does cause flooding.

  13. Never worked on these type of carbs, and I thank you for taking the time to make this, but I have to tell ya when you was being all safe by wearing safety glasses and blew you parts off the table cracked me up! lol…Thank you.

  14. I found this and your other video on the Briggs engine extremely useful. We have the same motor as you, the 13.5hp. I wonder if you can help with another issue. We had to replace the ignition lock and the solenoid but we can't get the LED ignition lamp to spark up at the first position of the key, instead it lights up only when we move the key to the start position, as soon as we let go of the key the engine stops. If we bridge the wires the ignition lamp glows but when wired to the key nothing. We have the wiring diagram and all leads are correct. Do you have any ideas? Kind regards Rich

  15. i hate these damn nikki carbs. i had one already flood an engine i was working on and they surge like hell. i wish all briggs engines ran on walbro carbs. screw those damn nikki carbs they got too much damn plastic in them. thats the problem with things nowadays everything is made of plastic!

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