Cleaning Rototiller Carburetor So It Runs Better



Since my Sears Craftsman rototiller handle bars broke off and the carburetor needed cleaning anyway I decided to just tackle the job right away and get it done all at once.

I recorded the whole process on video in case anyone is ever interested in learning how simple it is to clean a small engine carburetor.

This was a very basic carburetor so it was not at all complicated to work on.

When I got it opened up I discovered that it really did need a cleaning badly. The fuel bowl was loaded with filth and the whole inside of the carburetor was full of aluminum oxide corrosion.

The nut on the bottom of the fuel bowl was also full of sludge and it is no wonder that the engine would not run well. It had to be almost fully choked in order to run at all.

I got out my generator and air compressor so I could blow out the passages and chambers of the carburetor. I am living off the grid so I have to run a generator to power my air compressor.

After spraying everything up with carb cleaner I used the high pressure air and blew out all the passages in the carburetor to clean them out well.

It was a simple job and I recorded the whole thing live so you can see that it did not take long at all.

I put the carburetor back on the rototiller engine and got everything back together again.

The rototiller fired right up on the second pull which is good considering that the carburetor was bone dry after cleaning it.

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26 thoughts on “Cleaning Rototiller Carburetor So It Runs Better

  1. I have the same tiller and encountered the same issue. I watched your video to learn how to clean the carburetor and followed your instruction. I then reassembled the parts and the tiller started on the first pull. Thanks for the help! I'm headed out now to till up the garden.

  2. Farmers no longer plow fields because it mixes the topsoil with the clay underneath. Then their field becomes less fertile. Plants are very strong and will grow fine without it. Just poke a hole in the ground with a sharp object and put in a seed or seedling. You don't want to use tillers either. They screw up your garden's fertility too. To loosen the soil water it heavily. But stop before puddles form. Then start planting.

  3. Thanks a lot for this video! I just finished cleaning the carb on my rototiller that had been sitting for a few years and got it running again!

  4. Carb cleaner will eat rubber O-rings. You left the bowl O-ring in place when you sprayed it with carb cleaner. It is also worth the time to remove the jets and clean out those passages since you had it apart anyway.

  5. I used pressurized air that you clean your computers with and it worked! I never thought of using air to clean the lines. THANK YOU!!!! My tiller worked today. Now all i need to do is figure out why the sediment bowl keeps flooding. I think the pin on the floater isn't making a good enough connection, or the rubber gasket it pushes up against is worn out. Thumbs up for the video.

  6. *Compressed air is more important that carb cleaner.* Truer words have never been said. My Craftsman tiller wouldn't start. Disassembled the carb and flushed a ton of carb cleaner through it, reassembled it, and…nothin'. Watched your video (dude, for the love of God, please edit it down!!!!), then pulled apart the carb again, this time blowing 120 psi air through every hole I could find on the thing. Reassembled it and…presto!…started on the first pull! Thanks, hombre.

  7. I'm really surprised that you didn't remove the float and clean the float needle and seat. Also, you didn't remove the needle valve. That's really fundamental to cleaning a carb. You should take it apart . Not only does that make it easier to access the things that need cleaning but you can't even really inspect or clean them properly if you don't take them apart. And it's such a fast and easy step that I can't imagine why you didn't bother to do it. How can you even inspect the condition of the float needle and seat and the condition of the needle valve if you don't take them apart? What makes it so hard to understand why you didn't do those basic things is that they are so fast and easy to do. You skipped the most simple but critical steps.

  8. I'm not much of mechanic but watched your video, my tiller was not running , followed your video now runs like champ. Thanks for sharing.

  9. I bought the same tiller used only once but sat with gas in it for a few years. I gave $30 for it. Ran great after I cleaned the carb but the next time I used it, the seat for the needle was swollen and would not allow the float bowl to fill fast enough! Had the same thing happen to a lawnmower about ten years ago!

  10. Can you show us how to clean the blower housing? I just got a 5 year old Craftsman 5.5 Horse Power Tiller with about 5 total hours on it. Ruluuuuum ruuuuum ruuuuuum with little tiny pauses sort of up and down up and down constant but there is no actual hesitation. I changed the plug – store only had a NGK and changed out the oil – it was also about 4 ounces lower than the 20 oz required and the oil was black. I will not try to tackle cleaning the Carb being I'm new to all this – thanks for the video. Does yours have the 8horse engine ? Thanks. Can you do a vid on the proper way to use this tiller?

  11. Thanks for the great video. I have same machine and needed a good clean as it was running and making popping sounds . I even added Star-Tron Enzyme Fuel treatment I bought at Orielly's and hope it keeps the carb cleaner.

  12. Someone I know just gave me a tiller that doesn't run. He got it off of someone and the carb was totally disconnected. It appears to have good compression, however to get it running I have to put the carb/fuel tank back together, change the fluids and reconnect some cables. Also have to put a new end on the spark plug wire. If I get it running, I will have a pretty beefy tiller for free. Same guy gave me a much needed lawn mower as well. It has seen better days but it works.

  13. If you have further issues, pull float bowl and needle valve to make sure spring and needle are working proper. I repair small engines and those needles deteriorate over time! Plus on little piece of dirt can block the hole! Best wishes!

  14. threadlock compound is really cheap, about $5 a tube.

    manufactures dont use anything that costs unless theres a reason, the reason being all the engine vibration undoes bolts and screws and causes breakdowns, also it works to an extent as an anti seize by sitting between the metal surfaces and preventing a lot of fastener to body corrosion which makes the bolts weld themselves together to be a pita later.

    anti-seize grease/compound is also worth the expense on outside nuts/bolts on like your panels and wind experiments.

    take care.

    if anyone is bored i just uploaded a video of changing a cv boot on a fwd van

  15. Also, dip your finger in any oil you have laying around and run it around the o ring seal for the bowl, and any others to keep them from drying out and breaking down.

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