12 thoughts on “Crankshaft Installation (Vid 2 of 8) – How To 302 5.0 Budget Rebuild

  1. I took my previous comments off because they made me sound stupid. But I have a new question for you because you seem to be knowledgeable. The thrust bearing went out on my fully machined and rebuilt 302 with 12,000 miles. Not sure why but it did. I removed the engine. Removed the main caps. Removed bearings. Removed rod caps and bearings. Covered my ARP rod bolts with rubber tubing and removed my crank. I pushed the pisons all the way down and the crank easily came out. The newly ground and polished crank is still perfect. I intend to wipe down the inside of the block the best I can to clean any debris. Then re-install all new Clevite main and rod bearings. Put everything back together and run it. 1. What should I use to clean the inside of the block? Mind you the cam, heads even the intake are still installed. 2. Do you see anything wrong with what I am doing? Thanks for any advice. I never cut corners in anything I do and this engine only has 12,000 miles on it and looks brand new inside. So I really don't see the need to disassemble everything and send it to a machine shop again.

  2. Where did you find your motor? I've tried searching junkyards and some sites but I can't find a decent 302 for the right price, any suggestions? Just looking for a garage fixer upper.

  3. Seeing you had done several mock-up assembly steps,and also mentioned that you had taken some earlier end play measurements, I thought it strange you would torque the rear capall the wayto 70ft lbs before at least having the middle or other end also at least at an initial torque of say 40 ft lbs. Also, cleaning the pan gasket remains out of the rear main cap after it was reinstalled seemed out of order too. order of the lower caps should be marked , cleaned, and kept in order during reinstall,just to be sure.

  4. Hello, great video and a lot of help, just curious where to get the clearance specification sheet for the main and rods that shows within spec. Thanks

  5. I have attempted this myself. y issue was a cracked block. I have a fresh block bored over .30. I installed cam and them installed crank. I used the Main caps that came with the block. I could turn the crank at all no matted what I did. I loosened all of them and hand tightened just one and would turn. I used the main caps that were in the block that is cracked that the crank was in and it turns great. I plastigaged it and it comes out fine. I miked the inside bore with just the main caps from cracked block and all was right. I miked the caps side by side and all was the same. I have the correct measurements, the crank mikes out exactly like the book says it should. Do you think I should just "go" with it? I am not racing anything. I donthave any other options. haha

  6. am enjoying your videos , 
    i have 5.0 engine i am going to remove from a shell i am going to sell and just take the engine apart and rebuild it on my own so i can learn..eventually will drop it in my other mustang with an stock 5.0..
     i had a question , i was told that and bolts that touch the block or heads have to bebrand new when you replace them ??
    is that true?

  7. Thunder what would be the process needed to convert my 89 302 from EFI to a carb. I know that I need a manifold and carb, a fuel pump conversion, and a new distributer, but I feel like there are other things.

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