Fuel Tank Replacement On Briggs & Stratton 4-5HP Engines

In this video I show you how to easily install a fuel tank on a Briggs & Stratton engine.

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Fuel Tank #694315

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27 thoughts on “Fuel Tank Replacement On Briggs & Stratton 4-5HP Engines

  1. There were so many right on instructions in this video that I missed a few on the 1st pass. I got most of them the 2nd and 3rd times thru. It was very helpful to be able to stop and view the actual shots of various parts. I would not change a thing in this very thorough video. I was actually doing a chipper shredder and found yanking the wheel off gave me better access to the bottom bolt…but YUK ! getting that one way push lock off the axle in such a way as to be able to re-use it was a pain. Wasn't sure if I could get the part so I did it that way. Thank you very much Donyboy.

    First start-up couldn't get the throttle to work…found that the spring at the bottom end had come off; crimped it a little tighter when I put it on again, as I had to disassemble the entire job just to get to it. Now I am an expert on this engine LOL

    HINTS: I had the old fuel tank ($90 new) boiled out at a radiator shop and they relined the inside. They say they do about 6-8 (mostly motorcycle) tanks a week there. Cost me $7 for a 6 pack of Krispy Creme donuts and made a great real estate investor contact there. The carburetor was so cheap (under $16) that I just replaced it.

  2. I have an older B&S driven Go-Cart. Not sure how old it is or what horsepower its and I can't locate numbers to identify it. Is it likely the rebuild process is the same ? I see the 3.5 and 5 hp are similar despite possible part deviations.

  3. All that rust is water. I just took my tank off, and its shiny in there. Mine is a Powermate, from an auction fifteen or twenty years ago, so it was well taken care of. Always started right up.

  4. I have cleaned this same carb and replaced the diaphragm. Now i don't get the rpm's I used to . Is there any there adjustments on carb or can you till me what I did wrong. All the linkage is hooked up correct. Taking this carb off was a challenge for me. Great step by step video. Thanks.

  5. I just basically did this. I replaced my carburetor. I replaced carb cause I ran out of gas, refilled & broke pull cord. I fixed pull cord & it would not start. It's a 5hp verticle shaft on a log splitter. I have 60 lbs of compression, I'm getting fuel, & spark, & the keyway is on the shaft. Should start. I replaced carb cause I figured it was dirty. Now that it's back together it's the same thing. Please help

  6. Excellent video! I have watched some of your videos before and some other mower guys but this is by far the most thorough job of showing each step as you did it and several good tips on preventing linkage screwups. I have this exact engine on a leaf vac. My problem was a leak in the tank – second time. I was afraid to try a replacement and afraid of the cost of the tank. This time the JB Weld worked but if it happens again I will take it on thanks to you!

  7. very informative! mine runs great until the little "fuel bowl" in the tank runs dry. just replaced the entire carburetor assembly (with new pickup tube), still does the same thing. im tearing my hair out!!

  8. I've done this tank replacement on a 1976 5 hp engine that runs a push blower. Just as the video shows the repair is quite "fiddly" and there's not a lot of room to work. If you try it. be patient and , as Don does, keep the linkage placements straight. Good news is that the engine runs like a top at 3,550 RPM and puts out "wind" like crazy.. Probably one of my favorite pieces of equipment due to its age and consistent performance. Additionally, even after all these years you can buy any part you need (all OEM stuff). Worth some dough if you find this engine kicking around a yard sale or something!

  9. Awesome video! I wish I saw it before I took off my tank. I have the exact same tank and carb, and took off the tank to replace it without removing the carb. I'm ready to install a new tank, and discovered that I have one dangling wire from the engine, and I'm not sure where it goes. It has a ring terminal on the end of it, and I didn't see it in the video. Anyone have an idea? Is there a way to post a picture on this channel? Thanks!

  10. Hello Don. Must the foam go back in ? We took ours out to clean the tank. Any certain way and why do they put that in ? Awesome video as we let some linkage slip and the bottom spring. Thank you. Donald

  11. Great video donyboy! I have zero experience on working on engines and your detailed video walked me through the whole process flawlessly. My 25 year old rototill is running like new. Well done!

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