37 thoughts on “Horizontal Briggs Carb Rebuild part 1 of 2

  1. I believe you're talking about the hole for the anode. It stops the tank from rusting. Older models with this virtually identical carb did not have the choke and throttle lever mounted on the carb like this one. Instead they have a pull out choke on the end and a spot to mount a cable to control the throttle.

  2. mine is exactly the same as yours there is no choke pull at the end,what does the anode look like all i have is a bag of bits and an engine,in your video it shows some wire linkages on the throttle and choke,i haven;t got any on mine

  3. The anode looks like a small nail (see 3:52 on the right side). I would suggest looking up your exact engine model/code with online engine parts companies (there are lots). They will show you a complete parts breakdown and prices for all your missing parts.

  4. Ok, once the gas goes from the fuel bowl up the main jet, where does it go? I assume two places… 1. right into the carb… but also, 2. somehow it is feeding a tube that goes past the idle adjust screw, that also then goes into the carb. My engine runs like shit – it will only run with choke on full and throttle on max – I assume the holes going past the idle adjust screw are clogged, and no amount of carb cleaner I am spraying in them is cleaning anything. Fuel pump works, main jet clean.

  5. There is an air tube that feeds air down into the main jet area and mixes air with fuel(emulsion tube). To see the air inlet you need to pop out the large welch plug or look as down into the carb as possible through the inlet.

  6. Very helpful video, thank you. Any chance you could show how to remove/renew the welch plug and clean the air tube leading to fuel emulsion tube please. Also does the welch plug at the side need to be removed? I'm hesitant about removing these welch plugs since it's not an operation I'm familiar with. I'm guessing the one at the side needs to be drilled out, if it does need to be removed.

  7. I haven't needed to actually removed one in years. The reason being, if you can see cleaner spraying out the little holes drilled on the inside then the compartment under the welch plug is clean. They are remove with a SHARP punch or similar. It is lightly taped into the center at an angle and the plug is then popped out. Take care not to go to deep or you will ruin the entire carb by messing up the orifices. If carb cleaner sprays through the small holes I wouldn't touch the welch plug.

  8. Thanks for your answer, I might have a problem then! I've sprayed carb cleaner, as best I can, through this air passage or tube and it seems to be blocked. Are these small holes within the fixed rising emulsion tube or come out within the body of the carb itself? Are these welch plugs struck from outside the carb or from within, specifically the large one at the front? I'm guessing you mean from outside, at the centre, causing the edges of the plug or perimeter, to contract.

  9. Yeah, you are correct, they are stuck from the outside. The small holes are drilled directly behind the welch plug into the throat of the carb.

  10. Hey sixtyfiveford,

    First, VERY nice tutorial, this will be the 5th time I am rebuilding my carb to keep my POS Chipper running LOL

    Second, Do you still have that videoyou sent to 50 Cal? can you share with me as well? I am having the same exact issue, I need to have the choke just to keep it farting along.

    Thank you in advance!

  11. I do still have it. I just added you to the private video. I'm not sure if the email you or if you can view it on my channel. It is called Briggs for 50 cal.

  12. Thanks a lot for that! I just watched that and I think I have a pretty good idea on how to tackle this thing…

    This is a pretty crappy design Briggs has come up with… there is no filter on the my jet so I think I keep getting some debris in the tank and bowl … Im honestly about to drop a match in the gas tank and cure all my woes! LOL

  13. Yeah, if you have any rust or debris in the tank they will drive you crazy. If your tank is like this you need to de rust it. You do this by taking it off and filling it up a little with gas and rocks or bolts, then shake shake shake. Rinse and repeat.

  14. I actually managed to purchase a new gas tank years back and the inside Is in mint condition….Problem I encountered is when you first screw the Carb back onto the new gast tank some metal shavings seems to find their way into the gas tank… This year I had this thing running for days before encountering problems with it.

    On my latest carb clean I took the tank off, flushed it clean and put it back on…then proceeded to clean out the carb….I should have used more carb cleaner I guess LOL

  15. FIGURED IT OUT! Had NOTHING to do with the carb internals, the issue was with the pickup tube that runs to the bottom of the gas tank. The pickup tube is half brass and the other is plastic. the problem stems from the level of ethanol in modern gas..apparently ethanol can actually cause the plastic tube to expand to the bottom of the tank which restricts the gas… I ended up cutting an 1/8 inch off the top of the tube and reinserting onto the brass tube… Works like a charm now

  16. I have exactly the same carb that i am trying to resurect, except that it's on a generator. The only problems that I'm having (so far) are:
    The gas tank was rusted out so I had to cut it in half to get the carb off.
    There is a bit rust on the internal part of the throttle valve but I think I can deal with that.
    There is a short object that protrudes from the top half, downward into the fuel tank. What is it's purpose? It's almost rusted out and looks likw it's a pressed fit.
    Help !!

  17. The short piece of metal the protrudes into the tank is an anode. It's supposed to combat corrosion and is supposed to rust away and keep the upper fuel cup in the tank from rusting.

  18. I’m working on the same carburetor right now for my father in law.  I am not too familiar with the diaphragm carb, mostly just worked on the gravity feed carbs in the past.  Took it apart and did a quick once over and put it back together and the got the engine to run.  It idles fine and will rev up to a little better than half throttle, if I try to rev it up any higher than that it kills.  If I pull the throttle back it will start right up again, and it will stay running as long as I do not try to go to full throttle.  Any advice is greatly appreciated.

  19. Howdy sir…I just bought a used edger with this same motor (maybe a little newer).  I am having issues with it surging.  To cover all my bases, I changed oil, drained/refilled gas, and put in a new plug.  It still surges.  Then I cleaned the carb and reinstalled with new diaphragm.  Still surges.  Keep in mind, I have never worked on a carb before, but after watching your video, I noticed you removing the needle and counting the turns, etc.  I checked my screw and it was tightened all the way down.  I back it out some and it seems to run better with it backed out.  My problem is that I do not have a spring on mine, so the vibration of the motor tightens it back up.  Should all of these screws have springs on them to hold them in place?  Because I do not have the spring, could you tell me how much of a spacer the spring creates when fully compressed?  I tried the 1.5 turns out thing, and like I said, it got better, but I am doing 1.5 turns out with no spring in place, which is likely much less than if there were a spring there.  Sorry for the long comment and I hope I was clear.

  20. I actually did a little research and this motor apparently came with a needle like yours with a spring and then a "jet pilot" with no spring like I have. So now I am stuck again because it appears this is normal. Do you by any chance have a picture of your carb installed from the top? I am curious to know if all my springs/connectors are all there and in the correct spots.

  21. you are really great at explaining everything completely, thank you so much. you have helped me so much. God bless you

  22. Thanks for these videos. This is similar to the B&S on my Garden Way 3.5 tiller. Would have been nice to see the controls removed/reassembled during carb removal/replacement. With my luck I'll either break a spring/linkage or never get them back on correctly.

  23. I want to thank you for your videos and to say that instead of wire i use guitar string's all sizes one pack will last a life time thank's again.

  24. Hi great video btw i have exact same carb on a 5hp briggs power washer. never took one of these carbs off before. bolts are out but carb doesn't want to come off at all. do i just pry harder? or turn it a certain way maybe? just dont wana break anything an need to clean carb asap. If u can get back to me it would be greatly appreciated, thx. will subscribe also.

  25. I have this carb on a leaf vac and the engine will run great and then stop. I can restart immediately and it will stop again after about 20 seconds. I think I am running out of gas supply. This was engine unused for quite a few years

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