HOW TO ADJUST and sand the Points to have Spark again. This engine is the same as on the lawnmowers with points.Step by step instructions. Visit my channel for more repair videos.



35 thoughts on “HOW TO ADJUST The Points on 3.5 HP BRIGGS & STRATTON Engine

  1. hey donyboy I recently did some work on a Briggs and Stratton 3.65hp lawn mower similar to the one you changed diaphragm on but I did the disassembly wrong and cannot get the springs back on perfectly as they do not have any tension even though they are in the right position I think it have to do with the plastic piece attached to the magneto coil and even though the engine started easily it revs in pulses and sounds like it lacks power I also removed coil etc I think this is the problem help.

  2. Great video! I have a 3 hp Briggs motor on a real old Sears Push Mower. I hit a small stump and it stopped the blades cold. It won't start. When I pull the cord the blades turn. It doesn't feel like any additional resistance when I pull the cord. Do you think it is the flywheel key or something else? Thank you.

  3. Sounds like the flywheel key is sheared. When the blade stops abruptly the flywheel will continue to turn and damage the key. The result is that the spark plug fires too early. Only use a key intended for this purpose a steel key will cause major damage if you hit another stump.

  4. Most "Timing" is set on these motors you can however adjust the coil to magneto clearance which affects intensity of spark the slots in the coil should be so you can move the coil closer/further away.There are so many different makes of these motors you should look up the spec. 4 your motor…that being said i just use a piece of kinda thick (about .5 mil or .020 in) clear plastic from old packaging.turn flywheel till mag & coils line up put plastic in between coil and mag tighten bolts.

  5. @Mennitti4Congress-It may be a little late, but if you pull the cord, the blades spin but you feel no resistance, I think it may be something internal. When you pull the cord it causes the flywheel to turn which is connected to your upper crankshaft. The blade is at the other end of your crankshaft. If everything is turning freely with no resistance (e.g. no compression) either rod/piston are shot, or your exhaust valve is stuck open. It could also be your head gasket, but that and exhaust valve would have nothing to do with hitting a stump.

  6. Nice video and it helped out as I am setting the points on an identical rototiller. By chance have you been able to find tines for that tiller?

  7. Awesome video.  I've been fighting with my old tiller for over a week.  Followed your video and it would seem that dirty points were my nemesis.  Loved the way you calmly and clearly explained every step.  Thanks a bunch.

  8. I have the same tiller and I need help!!!! Ok so the shaft spins freely after the engine is running then I try to start it again and it still spins freely, then I have to hit the shaft with a mallet to get it locked in place

  9. Question – I bought a rototiller with a similar engine (1973 Bolens, Model 2135-02, B&S 3.5 HP engine # 92902-131601). I was able to follow your great carb cleaning video of this engine and the tiller now starts easily on the first pull and runs great. However after about 5-10 minutes once the engine gets hot it shuts off & and am unable to get it started again until it cools down. I've done a lot of research & there are a lot of things I can try changing .. I'm hoping to narrow it down, my next step is going to be to try & check for spark once its hot and maybe replace the ignition coil? Do you have any thoughts or advice?

  10. I have the same engine but when I pounded the flywheel, I chipped a piece off the back side of the flywheel….Can I still use it? It's just a chip from the back side. Good video! Thanks! Btw, what's the gap set for the points?

  11. Nice video on this old tiller, I have one close to yours with the same issue and this should help me out alot. What about the belts on this for the forward and reverse? I can't get mine to work? Have you done a video on something like that yet?

  12. Good ol pulsa jet carbs!  I thought that carb spring was in the wrong spot!  The cast iron flywheels usually popped off pretty easy.  Sometimes it is tough to get those carbs to accelerate real well without raising the idle speed some….I always thought the simpler vacu jet carbs ran better!

  13. Hi,i have a very old david Bradley tiller with the same motor.Ive cleaned the points and set the gap to 20 thousandths..I also rebuilt the carburetor.It has terrible kick back to it.It has to be the points plunger?right.Can I switch this motor over to electronic ignition?I have a coil that will fit.I love using the old points setup but it seems to me that the points are firing way to early and causing the kickback.

  14. big thanks for this video i was ready to scrap my rotorvator as it hasnt been running for 12 months with no spark then i was told about this video by a friend well it took me 20 mins after that it runs fantastic ………..martin …….. england

  15. permanent solution: that appears to be a 90000 series, they still make them, find a newer junk one at a local junk yard and put its solid state magneto on it. Won't need points anymore.

  16. Sandpaper or emery cloth should NEVER be used to clean ignition points! They can leave grit between the contacts. Therefore, it's better to use a thin, steel points file or a steel fingernail file to clean points. Actually, it's best to upgrade the engine with a B&S Magnetron solid state ignition module.

  17. donyboy73 I love your videos. I have a Spiegel tiller that is very similar to the one you have in thepoints video. What I am asking is do you have any idea what size drive belt it takes. I have no manuel to go by and its mext to impossible to measure it. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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