HOW TO REBUILD A STUART MODELS 5A STEAM ENGINE – PART #4



How To Rebuild A Stuart Models 5A Steam Engine – Part #4 – Reducing the end float on the Crankshaft, contemplating fitting silicone rubber oil seals to the Crankshaft on both sides of the bearings, correcting the unequal sized bearing top caps and cleaning up the flywheel casting ready for machining.
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13 Replies to “HOW TO REBUILD A STUART MODELS 5A STEAM ENGINE – PART #4”

  1. Anytime I am epoxying parts that have had extended exposure to lubricants (and are small enough) I let them soak in a thin solvent overnight. I find that this helps draw out the oils that have "soaked" into the metal and makes the jb weld adhere better.

  2. Also if the jb is going to be thick or drilled and tapped I mix some fine filings of the same material into the batch before applying. It beefs the strength up in my experience.

  3. Another new upload on this 5A . Is it a bonus job Keith ?. You are churning them out faster than I can keep up . NO , it's not a complaint take it as a complement for all your effort and work showing a down to earth experienced approach with these model engines.

  4. As usual very entertaining. I'm not into steam engines however the way you present your videos you always keep my interest. Even when you are presenting that very interesting painting I am intrigued by the narration. Keep up the good work!!

  5. You need to get yourself an old harpsichord. Then you exchange its keys with the keys on your keyboard. Harpsichords have black and white keys the wrong way around. So with this method you can make a keyboard that has all black keys. Then, there is no need to clean your hands so much.

    Else you can paint the keys black. But painting some 60 keys would be a rather long and boring job…

  6. I love you man but here in America JB weld is usually a sign of a hammer and chisel mechanic, which you are absolutely not. There's even a saying, "a little JB weld and a little paint, will make a mechanic out of one that ain't"

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