34 thoughts on “HOW TO REPAIR Riveted Pull Start on Briggs & Stratton Snowblower Engine PART 1/2

  1. wow all this plastic is so annoying. I have an old Briggs and it so much better, and easy to fix! , no crapy plastic.

  2. @carrick64231 It sure would be nice to find out. i always assumed it was the ignition. Perhaps it could be the oil pump? Some sort of oil pressure relief mechanism which helps it start easier?

    Or maybe it's a decompression mechanism to help it start easily.

  3. Have you ever seen a snow beast 45 " snowblower??? I'm not sure what the point of this 'thing' is. It's chute is not significantly wider than my tecumseh 24" for all the snow it eats , and the auger shaft and shear pins are the usual size. But it does have a ohv engine and 4 tires. Can't imagine the maintenance on this thing and rust issues. I would think you would just get a snow plow where at least you would be warm inside your truck!! Anyone else out there thinks the way I do??

  4. I went the rivet only route. Used 3/16" bit to drill out rivets. Vacuum/blew out aluminum shavings (or so I thought). Installed new starter-rewind assembly (Briggs 699335) with 3/16" by 1/4" aluminum rivets. Ready to pull start and it SEIZED. The heads of the old rivets had fallen and wedged into the flywheel teeth. Long story short, take off the housing even if you're using rivets.

  5. btw, Yes it's fixed, good thing I used aluminum rivets as they are a lot softer than steel. I did need to remove the shroud to clean out all the aluminum I missed.

  6. Thanks so much…you just made my life alot easier! Easy job to do really when you know just what to do. I have the 250cc 1150 and not the 1350 like you were working on and I didn't have to loosen off the carb to get the shroud off.

  7. Do you see a lot of these broken dogs? For me they come in all the time all with the same problem. The old ratchet with the 5 steel balls was so much better. Do you have a long term solution to fix these type pullstarts?

  8. excellent video, i have a 2010 Ariens compact 24 with the same B&S engine, however they have modified the cowl slightly so you don't have to do anything to the carb anymore and the pawls and cover are now metal – aside from that your video made the whole process a breeze, thanks a lot

  9. You have awesome videos DonyBoy! I really like your clear, simple and detailed explanations. My friend and I, repaired 2 snowblowers thanks to you! Recently, you just helped me repair the pull cord on my snowblower (conveniently the exact same model as the one shown in the video). In the video, you mention that the work that was done to replace the rivets bolts was not done 'correctly'. Do you have any videos that explains how to do that 'correctly'?

  10. That's the worst designed pull cord start that I've seen. Not sure if I'm going to tackle it or not as I don't have a garage to do it in… Regardless, thanks you for your video, very well done.¬†

  11. Once again' the perfect video to help a do it your selfer. This is exactly the issue I was having. This showed me how to fix it perfectly. I use your videos frequently . Thank you so much for doing these great videos. Thanks from Newfoundland.

  12. Great video. Procedure extremely well explained. Very helpful. But why would B&S come up with such a lame cord start assembly ? By comparison the pull start mechanism on the Tecumseh engine is held in place by two easily accessible screws. Next step try to complete the repair on my newly acquired used Craftsman/Husqvarna snowblower. Again yours videos are greatly appreciated.

  13. Thats crazy, you have to dismantle half the engine just to repair the recoil and I don't like a lot of the cheap parts I see on that engine. Another reason why Tecumseh engines were better. 4 bolts, or screws on the older engine's or just two bolts on the smaller engine recoils or 4 screws and it's off. They make that so damn hard, you have to take it into a shop for repair if your not handy. More money you have to spend for something simple on an engine that is not built as well as Tecumseh was. Thats ridiculous. I am getting so sick of seeing this cheap crap they are sticking North America with since 2009. It's really pathetic.

  14. Excellent video. Exactly what I needed to execute the replacement of my pull cord on a Craftsman 1450 with Briggs & Stratton engine. Particularly appreciated the suggestions of the sizes required for the tool bits. Made it much quicker. Now that I managed to disassemble the necessary parts, I will proceed with the reassembling using Part 2 of your video.

  15. Great video!! Will use this to fix my starter cord that snapped a while back. Thanks a million.

    But could someone answer me this? why not use screws instead of rivets? Be a lot easier on the consumer. Maybe there's a reason, I don't know. Just don't make sense to me.

  16. Thanks. Excellent video as usual donyboy73! It is ridiculous that briggs used rivets purely for ease of manufacture with no regard for future maintenance. I do not have the reverse torx tool for the carb, it is cold in my garage now, so I will be using the electric starter (which I have never used up till now) until it is much, much warmer outside. Thanks again for the great video.

  17. I was able to use your videos to repair my craftsman snowblower pull start. However, I think I caused another issue. When I tilted the snowblower on it's side, oil may have seeped into the carb. I'm not 100% sure. But now it only starts for about 2 seconds, then stalls. Any advice?

  18. I will be digging a hole in my bush and putting this piece of junk out of my misery ! [it will be free of fuel and oil] …now that I've seen what it takes to replace the pull start rope. [excellent video !] My 33" blower's split axle drive has also been an irritation since day one.[ one warranty repair and two more attempts.] I'm done with Craftsman "engineering" !!!

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