How to weld aluminum with a propane torch and low heat aluminum welding rods fix your radiator.

How to weld aluminum with a propane torch and low heat aluminum welding rods fix your radiator.

Here is a link to a propane torch head (pencil flame) at Amazon: Or Ebay:
Harbor Freight Tools Pack of 8 Alumiweld Aluminum Welding Rods At Amazon: Or Ebay:

This is a how to on fixing a leaking aluminium radiator with a propane torch and low heat aluminium welding rods which can be purchased from Harbor Freight. BTW the cheapest propane bottles are at Walmart in the camping section.

Here is a link for a 20% off coupon from Harbor Freight to save you some money.
Facing Cam: Or Ebay:
Overhead Cam: Or Ebay:
Handheld cam: Or Ebay:
Video Software: Or Ebay:
Desktop Capture: Or Ebay:
Mic: Or Ebay:
Mic Wind Muff: Or Ebay:
Lens: Or Ebay
Lens Filter: Or Ebay:
Muff for handheld cam: Or Ebay:
Selfiestick dslr: Or Ebay:
Tool box: Or Ebay:
Laptop stand: Or Ebay:
Studio mic: Or Ebay:
Tripod Neewer Professional 61 inches: Or Ebay:
Tripod Neewer Alluminum Alloy 62″: Or Ebay:
Thank you and enjoy.

How to weld aluminum with a propane torch and low heat aluminum welding rods fix your radiator.



49 thoughts on “How to weld aluminum with a propane torch and low heat aluminum welding rods fix your radiator.

  1. I would say for never doing it before you did a good job and at least you knew to prep the area you are tring to "weld" I call it brazing …just warm the metal up you are tring to weld and then use the rod and torch and laydown your weld but it's just like brazing and good job

  2. Nicely done and I agree work with cans FIRST. then if one can braze without melting through side wall then one is ready. My Choice is map/o2 it heats faster than propane does same job. 2 as a noob to this myself heat waving or in circular pattern.

  3. I dont blame you for being hesitant on burning through the radiator. Ill never forget in high school a know it all tried brazing a radiator for his friend. All he did was turn a tiny leak into a gaping hole!! Theres no going back after that

  4. J-B Weld is man's best friend for stuff like this, used it on my KX 500 rads and worked great … no torch needed. The original formula is good to 600* and the quick set version good to 300* and if your coolant ever reaches 300* you will have bigger problems to worry about other than your rad, lol. I bead-blasted both rads and touched up all the bad spots with J-B Weld, painted them and still good 6 years later.

  5. You're good Richard the only thing I want to add to the other comments it a that yes Sr this rods does not need any flux I have use them before few time the only think you need yo do it's clean it with stainless brush and heat the material instead of the rod if you heat the material to the right temperature the brazing rod will melt very nice!! You're good all ways

  6. Okay i have a question will this aluminum welding rod fix a hair line crack on the top casing of a 1986 yamaha 225 moto4 when i ride it only does it not leak but more of a seep can this fix it or is it toast i no how to do the work heat the metal first then touch the rod pretty much like a soldering job but ALOT more at risk then a bad connection it is right at the bottom of wjere the jug bolts to the case its on the right side bottom bolt from the jug to the case now the hair line crack starts at the Bolt hole then runs to the right in a strait line hasnt effected how it runs its a torque monster

  7. I can't watch this without intervening here. I've been at this for over 50 years and specialize with Aluminum. With this rod you're using you need a lower heat and make sure you get your aluminum hot first. The melting point of this rod is around 700 deg. but it will start melting around 450 deg. so about this point you need to be moving your rod across the joint like you are scratching it. This is called tinning your material, both sides and then you'll see your rod starting to melt to the tinning and flow to a perfect fillet. What I use for this is the no. 1 brazing tip or the no. 0 , small flame about 1 1/2 " long and dob my rod in and out fairly quickly. When the heat is right you'll see some of the rod left behind, small bits at first but this is the right sign of it being ready to flow. The best tip I can give you is don't be in a hurry to dob rod in, just laying the rod in will take away enough heat to interrupt and melt long before the material is ready for it. Also if you go to the alumaweld website they have a video there to help you, I don't have a camera so I can't just show you. Sorry to just jump in here but I've trained a lot of guys, and some girls, and it's hard to not try and teach.
    Oh, one more thing, with oxy-acet being so much hotter keep moving your torch in and out and not blow holes. Good luck.

  8. I've just scrolled through most of these posts which offer advice on welding or brazing Aluminum. The thing is I was looking for Aluminium and not Aluminum, now I feel a right daft bugger, by the way I'm offering a prize of a full packet of Tunes (cherry menthol) for anyone who can show where Aluminum appears on the periodic table of elements, I've looked and, believe me, it isn't there- look for yourself if my word isn't enough, but if you do, prepare to be amazed because it really isn't there. (p.s. don't confuse it with Aluminium)

  9. If you hold the rod back the rod as you heat the surface you will then find that you can introduce the rod in a sliding motion and it will penetrate the surface and crack. If you heat the rod you lose adhesion and get globs.

  10. Not a "welder" but I've been trying to learn a few processes. I noticed for aluminum tig welding it is not uncommon to clean the surface with mineral spirits after light sanding.
    Apparently this aids adhesion by reducing contamination. Thanks for the lesson.

  11. Nice learning experience, Richard. If I may make a suggestion, brazing or soldering a cracked radiator may be easier if you first flush it thoroughly with water and allow it to dry. Residual glycol inside the radiator always seems to find its way through a crack when heated, and prevents adhesion.

  12. I have several cracks in my Honda 530 GVX aluminum crankcase.  I am going to attempt to weld it together with a propane torch.  Should I apply aluminum from the inside or outside?

  13. hey thanks for the video it was very informational. I am trying to build a scale model of a scaffold so im going to have to weld some parts. however im not sure about my choice of material. I've read that steel doesn't weld as well as other metals. would you recommend welding steel?

  14. I woould have used a smaller torch tip, and some silver solder.
    Now that I finished watching the whole video, I understand that you were not welding the thing, you were using some sort of aluminum solder. Yes, when soldering, you have to heat the metals of the parts you're trying to adhere together, and then let THAT melt the solder. Good job.

  15. Thanks ! Your vid provides some great real world experience with using these rods. I've been doing research before I actually try it, so this has been invaluable for me and I appreciate the "mistakes" ! The one thing I'm getting consistently from all the vids I've been watching is that the "trick" to brazing with these rods seems to be heating the base metal to a point were the heat in the base metal does most of the melting of the rod. I hope I don't ruin my carb 🙂

  16. you made a how to video without knowing how to actually.

    1)the reason you dont get adhesion is because the radiator stays cold and your rod melts
    2) you arent using flux…itll make your life way easier
    3) doubt the alumunum can and the aluminum radiator are the same gauge…it wont melt as easy but god damn take the rubber hose off.

    now for actual instructions…

    1) clean properly
    2) apply flux
    3) heat indirectly from a distance constantly moving the torch
    4) test heat of material by touching with a rod…if rod melts then its hot enough….remove flame and keep melting rod into radiator until more heat needs to be reapplied.

    what you actually did was put the rod where the flame was and melt the rod only onto a cold piece of aluminum, then heat the whole damn thing to a boil until solder actually melted properly.

    watch copper piping soldering tutorials on here and see how neat and nicely it can be done

  17. Well for one thing you should have heated the piece to be welded first then as you heat, pull the torch away and then test to see if the rod will melt then you know you have good adhesion ! Just a suggestion from a Welder. I do this stuff for a living every day!

  18. Nice job and thanx for the vid! I wonder if one of those little butane microTorches might give more control?  Something I may try.  I'll have to get some of those rods and look into the flux option as well.  Thanx again!

  19. awesome video man, thanks for sharing….I can't wait to try welding my aluminum diamond plate! thanks for getting me interested in doing it again

  20. Great job Richard,
    Thanks for letting me learn from your mistakes LOL.
    Your vid is gonna be a huge help for my project. My only constructive criticism: Considering your dealing with a good bit of heat, safety cloves would be a good way to go.
    Thanks again!

  21. We all learn by doing, some are fortunate enough to be able to watch someone else learn by  doing so kudos to you.  thanks for being humble enough to show us the good and bad.

  22. One more reason to choose aluminum over plastic ended radiators. Thanks for the tip! Will remember this if my dual core all aluminum radiator leaks. Heating the surface was probably part of the problem with the adhesion, soldering carries the same principle, surface needs to be pre heated for a weld to take place.

  23. If the melting temperature is below 842°F (450°C) then it is soldering per American Welding Society (AWS). The rods sold at places like these are solder rods. AWS defines brazing as such a process which involves a filler metal which has a liquidus above 842°F450°C (450°C). You also need to check what alloy of aluminum you have, 5000 series alum. needs a very aggressive flux.

  24. I wanted to put my 2 cents worth in here. It concerns soldering a copper and brass radiator. I once had to drive 15 miles in freezing temperatures with no antifreeze. The result was 15 holes in the radiator. I took the radiator off the car and put it in the kitchen sink and began filling the radiator with water. When I saw a leak, I heated the leaking spot with a propane torch and touch the acid core solder to it. I did all 15 leaks the same way and the radiator was on the car years later when I sold it. I love your video. It's the first time I've seen how to weld aluminum. This day I learned something.  Thank you sir.

  25. ok everybody let watch this guy melt holes in those two can, Ha Ha this is going to get good I have used those rods and got no where and we are going to be making fun of this guy  when he falls flat on his face .  Set back and chuckle along with me

    Dat.  Dat . You photoshop Dat ain't no way you brazed them two cans together .. I already tried it .  It don't work     Now you going to really make a fool of yourself trying to braze that snout on Dat little radiator.   You better shut this video dowwn so we can't see the mess you are about ready ro make

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *