Kawasaki 4 Stroke Engine Rebuild. Piston Ring Repair , Head Gasket Replace



We have the kawasaki 4 stroke engine put back together and on the walk behind mower. We replaced both sets of pistons rings and we also put on new head gaskets and other gaskets as needed. The exhaust valve was stuck open and we got that fixed before we started this rebuild. The engine runs good but at a high rpm. We believe it is because of the governor spring that I stretched out on accident. I ordered a new gov spring and throttle link & spring. Hopefully this fixing that problem and the mower will be done. Thanks you for watching and if you have anything to add to this rebuild please do.

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43 Replies to “Kawasaki 4 Stroke Engine Rebuild. Piston Ring Repair , Head Gasket Replace”

  1. Great job! Just one tip- always put some oil in the cylinder when installing the piston to lube the walls so the rings can create there own seal marks when you break in the new rings. Never install in a dry cylinder. sound good though.

  2. ahh , 4 stroke engines . always more difficult to take apart . have to deal with the ohv just to reach the jug and piston . thats why i try to stick to 2 stroke engine rebuilds . very simple 🙂

  3. I have a mower exactly like this. I replaced both heads. I am having same problem with carburetor and have been playing around with governor and throttle linkage and am still not able to get RPMs down. Can you do a video showing how to correct this?

  4. succesfully rebuilt my engine only to come to a oil in piston problem again after two weeks. Damm it . Did the rings on piston using the spec sheet from kawasaki and it still failed .I have low rpm when blades engaged. what a nasty feeling.

  5. An overpriced small engine repair shop would have charged you a small fortune to do this work. Nice job only PLEASE in the future use assembly lube on the parts or at least a coating of engine oil on the cylinder walls and bearing surfaces.

  6. More likely the problem lies with the governor arm not being rotated properly when the engine case went back together. It's a common gotcha problem with small engine overhauls and the more mechanics you have and the more distractions from same, the higher the chances someone will forget to do this part correctly. You might be able to to remove all the parts from the shaft and rotate it now to save taking the engine apart again. Valve clearance must be set correctly and I believe that this was the original issue – you set those valves EVER? You should. Bent pushrods are still in your future if you don't.

  7. Yeah when I set the governors on these I loosen the clamp on the gov shaft and grab the shaft with tiny vicegrips and let their weight be on the left holding it towards the wide open throttle position.
    Then let the governor spring pull the lever to the wide open throttle position.
    Then manually move the lever down a tiny bit until the throttle closes about 10% of the way from wide open – careful the gov shaft stays put.
    Have an assistant tighten the clamp bolt while ensuring neither the shaft nor lever moves.
    There is enough slop even in a new engine to where the throttle should just barely reach wide open throttle – but you have ensured that even with the slop there will be enough governor travel to get the throttle to close onto it's stop.
    If it still won't govern – repeat this process except hold the gov lever 25% of the way closed.
    I invented this process – it ain't in the shop manual.

  8. Is there a way of changing the crank case gasket without disassembling the entire engine? I've got a john deere with a oil leak at the crank case that needs repair the engine in short of removing it from the deck.

  9. use engine oil putting the pistons in, also you can use large hose clamps to compress rings while installing so you dont break a ring. also pour oil in pump so it will prime before starting

  10. Good video. I am not an expert but I am taking a marine engine repair class. For a few things we were taught… The piston and the piston rod are suppose to be oriented a certain way in many engines. Put the piston back in the same cylinder with the the end bolted around the crankshaft in the same direction as it came off. Do not swap ends. Be sure to torque everything in the engine that takes much time to replace. After going to that much work, I would replace the bearings and seals whether they look acceptable or not. They are the parts that take the most abuse and I don't have time to do a bunch of rebuilds for inexpensive parts.

  11. I highly recomend putting assembly lube on next time it reduces the risk of wearing everything ut again due to the fact that itll need more lubrication when you start it for the first time afte you rebuild an engine especielly big engines

  12. I get that it's an old video and I'm sure there's about a hundred thousand angry YouTubers that already yelled at you about these two things. And I'm not accusing you of not doing it I'm just saying that I didn't see it in the video. First off when assembling new engine parts or old for that matter always try to use assembly Lube or just a heavy weight oil will work just as well and I don't care what anybody says. Secondly I didn't see you adjust the valve lash. That's the space in between the rocker arm and the valve itself. Off the top of my head they're the only two things I saw. Like I said though you may have done that and just didn't video it I understand it's hard to shoot videos and get worked on at the same time. I'm glad everything worked out for you though. Saved a lot of money doing this yourself

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