32 thoughts on “Lawnmower Kickback Problem

  1. I see why they went out of business. Those are the sorriest motors I’ve ever worked on. So far it has attacked me three times. Got bruises all over my right side where it ripped the handle out of my hand and slapped me. Just replaced the flywheel and key set valves and it still will kick back. Think I might use it for target practice. Got where I’m scared to try to start it again. Tecumseh trash the flywheel isn’t much more then aluminum foil. Glad they went out of business never have had a problem like this with a Briggs & Stratton. Good ridden Tecumseh 💩💩💩

  2. Ah very informative, maybe this is why my old toro snowthrower snaps back after the 1st or second pull, nearly tore my bloody arm off. I stick to the electric start in colder temps.

  3. Nice video mate! Check us out on ELIMINATOR PERFORMANCE VIDEOS you may be interested in some of the repairs we have done. Especially the seized Kubota which likely rusted internally so fast because of Chinese steel in the engine.

  4. thanks for the help, ive had problems for ages and kept getting dirty kickback.found out the key had snaped.now just got to find a new one

  5. my snowblower lifts right off the ground when i try to pull start…pain in the ass. good thing it has electric starter. ill check for this problem in the spring.

  6. I see how the flywheel key is skewed @ 5:30. This maybe why my arm was pulled violently during a cold start this fall season. I took the flywheel off in the spring to observe the kill switch and may have not reassembled it properly. Did not know this could be so critical in regards to timing. I was able to start after cleaning the carburetor bowl, but did not to keep running, would sputter and backfire too. Thanks buddy, for the helpful video.

  7. It happen to me today,i watch ur video and checked the flywheel key is ok..then adjust valve clearance still kick back…the problem is the spring auto decompression located at my camshaft is broken

  8. I have a Honda GX200 and Subaru engines both in power washers backfiring and kicking back, the damn Subaru sometimes start but when kickback take the pulling handle off my hand and hurts my fingers, im going to check em this week it is probably same failure.
    Thank you for the video.

  9. I was working on my Nabors mower, and it kicks back bad, the key didn't look bad, but it may be just like yours, I will pull the flywheel and check it out, thanks.

  10. You got lucky that flywheel did not crack, removing it way you did. Maybe came of so easy, because the key was not broken. I was not so lucky trying to remove flywheel the same way. (because of ignorance, I did not watche any video or instruction, it just siemed natural way to remove it) But my flywheel cracked, and you should NEVER use cracked flywheel. The engine will run, but damaged flywheel is a bomb that can explode at any moment and seriouslie injure or kill someone. I found new flywheel for free from a dead engine.
    You can pull using those 3 holes in the middle, or pry flywheel with a screwriler or other instrument (not too hard). And tap the axel. It should come of aftrer 3 to 5 gentle taps.

  11. I have a problem with bs engine. Cord is hard to pull but starts. Flywheel key is ok. Adjusted ohv's. No remedy. But if I remove plug it is smooth as butter. I changed connecting rod prior. I removed oil pan and noticed squeeling noise when I rotated crank but not enough for tight pull. Crank is not bent because I had wife pull on cord and no wobble. Any suggestions?

  12. I have this problem with a Toro Recycler self propelled mower with a 6.5 Tecumseh engine. The timing was terrible too, it was working when I loaded it up to sell it and it had the problem right as I was trying to sell it. The pull cord recoiled so hard to snapped back around the handle and busted open my thumb at the knuckle. Second time (silly me for trying again, but the guy was standing right in front of me with cash in hand and I needed to show him it worked) hit the same area, just an inch lower and my hand was swollen and almost useless for days. Being whipped with the pull handle like that, I'm lucky it didn't break a bone. Anyway, the flywheel key is on its way from Amazon and hopefully that should fix it. I hear it's not an uncommon problem in these larger 6+ HP Tecumseh engines.

  13. hi next time you pull the flywheel off ,put the nut on and leave a 5mm gap when the flywheel pops it won't have the puller fly off and maybe drop the alloy fly wheel
    all the best brian

  14. Bugger me i found out what it was by pure mistake……As i had only just got it all i did was try to see if it would start and never even thought about trying to cut the grass…..So today i thought ok sod the kick back i will sharpen the blade up and that will do us for next season…..I started it pushed it on the grass a bit and i thought thats a bit odd it dont seem to be cutting proper. I thought oh well i have to take the blade of so sod it….Turned the mower over and went to undo the bolt and i noticed the blade was moving around a bit on that aluminum block thing that holds it in place. So any way i tapped the bolt with a hammer until it came loose and took it off. On that aluminum block as you no is 2 little lugs that sit in side 2 little holes in the blade to stop it spinning around by its self. They had snapped off. And i presume thats were they hit a brick. So i did a little DIY and drilled those 2 holes out and put 2 little bolts in and 2 nuts on the end. They are the kind of bolts that will sheer off should i hit a brick.,,,,Any way i got it all back on let it stand for 10 minutes so as to let most of the oil fall back down and started it…NO KICK back.. Ran it for a good 10 minutes to let the smoke clear from the exhaust were the oil had sat. Turned it off then started it again. No kick back…So i can only think that it was the loose blade that was chucking the engine out of sink a bit and as i pulled the cord and the engine was trying to fire i think the blade was trying to go back on its self and that caused the kick back…

  15. I must be the unlucky one lol……I took the top off and had a look at the key before removing it and it looked to me to be ish in line to a nats nacker but i could see the key had turned round on its self….Its a Briggs and Stratton…3.5 i think….On this its just a flat key but bigger one side so it fits in snug. So any way i pulled the top off had a clean up put the key in the right way put it back on and started it….Unlucky for me it still kicks like a horse.. When you pull it over very slow its trying to fire up. Its like the timing is spot on like too spot on. I looked at the coil on it and i cant see any way of just advancing it or retiring it.. Looks like i may just have to live with it…

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