Part 1 of 3: Rebuilding 10HP Briggs and Stratton Engine : Rings, Gaskets, Reseat Valves

Part 1 of 3 videos on rebuilding a 10HP Briggs and Stratton Engine. This motor was in fairly decent shape, main reason for rebuild was all the gaskets were leaking on it, so i figured while it was apart, go ahead and re-ring it. Be sure to check out the other parts! Thanks for Watching!!!



25 thoughts on “Part 1 of 3: Rebuilding 10HP Briggs and Stratton Engine : Rings, Gaskets, Reseat Valves

  1. On some mowers they have a thing that sticks out of the bottom carb. Bowl with 2 wires. What is that. And what does it do if it goes bad.

  2. Nice.. tks… Mine seeps oil too after 20yrs of use.  Now I want to find an old engine to rebuild.. Any suggestions?
    OH .. recommended tubes for you.. Ive been wanting brighter RiderLawnmower headlights.. Perhaps you could do a comparison between 1156's whatever and LED's. 
    Although they may need circuitry.  Another is to mount an alternator on a deck pointing down and pulley from the crank to alternator. Home-brew backup generator. 

    Holding my breath for #2 and #3.. Especially if you discover other good reasons it needed rebuild.   It may have been just getting a bit hot from all that grass in the air cool area.

  3. I got a 2003 model on the bench Im looking at. 28r707 It's not pretty on the inside. Full of water for a good while. Owner thinks someone put water in the oil for spite. Full of rust inside on the counterweights and the parts that are not aluminum. At least there was some oil in it so I think I can clean everything up and hope for the best. It will barely turn over even with me putting out on it. When I get the rod bolts off I'll know more. Got it soaking now !!

  4. Subbed, good work, I did notice one thing though that I do differently, removing the piston; I find it's easier to bang off the flywheel and remove the whole crankshaft, this lets you check on the flywheel main bushing and the upper main journal too. It's possible to sneak the crank out with the rod disconnected too so having the crank out gives you more room to play with and room to clean the case.

  5. stupid question coming up,when I'm taking my mower to bits,is there a way I can find out with my torque wrench the correct torque so when I put it back together I know correct torque,without having manuals on hand,hope I make sense

  6. thanks for reply,just getting into fixing small engines ,love to do it full time,problem is not enough people dumping there old mowers like they used to ,money tight I guess

  7. That oil slinger, I thought that was the governor, or does the 10HP engine combine the two?
    Oh, OK, no oil slinger on the rod.
    I've never tore down anything over 5 hp so far.
    And as for surfacing the head, a sheet of glass and some sand paper/Emery cloth stuck on the surface should do.

  8. I have a 10 hp . I was wondering if anyone knows, If you can use an 8hp Crank? My key way is fucked, So I want to use an 8 crank I have . Just want to know before I proceed

  9. Hi, love your videos.
    I have a couple of questions:
    1. If the cylinder had a scratch in it would you hone it? There's mixed messages out there, some say "never hone an aluminum cylinder" because it removes the coating and others have honed them and say the engine is working fine. So, if I have a scratch that I can catch with my fingernail, should I hone it? The clearances are very good and the scratch is a vertical scratch that runs about 1,5 inches, just enough to easily catch with one's fingernail.
    2. I didn't see you put the oil slinger back. I was having trouble getting it in the right position when I reassembled.
    Thanks for the videos and for any response you can offer.

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