Pressure Washer Won’t Start? Honda Small Engine #16100-Z0L-864



This video provides step-by-step instructions for replacing the carburetor assembly on Honda small engines. The most common reason for replacing the carburetor is when it is clogged, causing the engine to run poorly or not start at all, and cleaning the carburetor does not fix the problem.

Click here to purchase Part #16100-Z0L-864: https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Carburetor-Assembly/16100Z0L864/2700859?TLSID=1876

Additional small engine repair, troubleshooting tips, help finding your model number, and part replacement videos: https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/Small-Engine-Repair-Help?TLSID=1876

All of the information in this carburetor assembly replacement video is applicable to the following brands: Honda

Tools used: 10mm socket and socket wrench, pliers, needle-nose pliers

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13 thoughts on “Pressure Washer Won’t Start? Honda Small Engine #16100-Z0L-864

  1. Thank you so much for this video.  I spent hours trying to find a source that would show the installation of the gaskets, since they fell off when the carb was removed.  Even the parts diagram from Honda was not that helpful.  Your video clearly showed the complete removal and installation af the carburetor for this engine on a power washer.   There were many of the GCV160 engines but they do have differences.

  2. I'm looking at where the choke rod is attached on that black plastic part and on my Honda lawn mower the choke rod is attached on the other hole. Is there a reason for this? Thanks.

  3. nice video   I think I can attack my Honda now…..  where the linkage, gaskets and reassembly should go smoothly…

  4. Good video. Replace the useless fuel feed hose clamp with a real one. This engine is but one of many GCV160 variants. On some, replacing the carb gaskets is a pain as they cannot be preloaded on to the bolts as shown here.

  5. There's a trick to making this job a little easier. Take a 6 mm threaded rod and create two homemade studs about 3 1/2 inches long. As soon as you've removed one of the carb mounting bolts, thread one of your studs into place and hand tighten. Repeat this step for the remaining bolt. Then, remove the air filter housing, the carb and the associated gaskets and spacers. During the installation process the studs will keep everything in place. All you need to do after that is exert a little pressure against the air filter housing, remove one of the studs and thread in one of the bolts. Repeat for the other bolt and there you have it.

  6. Excellent video but I noticed that it appears that you installed the large gray cardboard gasket (heatshield?) that is next to the black plastic spacer differently than it came off. See the video at 0:400:50 and compare it to the re-install at the end of the video (about 2:18). The gray cardboard gasket has been flipped horizontally and thus moved inboard where before it had an outboard overhang.  Might make a difference as there is a small hole in one side of that gasket (altitude adjustment?)  and not in the other side.

  7. Excellent video and I was able to clean the carb and replace it with no problem with the help of the video but I am having a problem with the auto choke set up is their any
    video on that subject.. thanks for your help

  8. I have the same one but my problem is the fuel is not getting into the bowl. unscrewed the vent screw on top of carb and the bowl fills up. starts and runs till the fuel is gone again in the bowl? being there is no fuel pump not sure how this fuel is going into the carb or in this case not. any ideas?

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