Snapper Rear Engine Mower Re-power with Briggs and Stratton



This is a full start to finish Briggs and Stratton engine re-power of the 1983 Snapper Rear Engine Rider mower.

The Forest Gump special!

Blower repair: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9HT35qO5AhM
Weed eater repair: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X13kXVBNxyU

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22 thoughts on “Snapper Rear Engine Mower Re-power with Briggs and Stratton

  1. You can buy a different mower for less than the engine cost, and a 28" mower is too small.  I have one that I tried selling for $150 and no one even called me and it runs and mows fine.

  2. Nice vid. Well done. You think 8hp is small? I have a very old Snapper Comet 26" and I pulled the 6hp Tecumseh engine from it. I just need to buy a starter and muffler for the 12hp engine I got from a old junk mower that I pulled apart, cleaned up and resealed. The only challenge will be the fuel tank. I wish I had the tank setup that you have.

  3. thanks for the vid getting ready to a swap on the same year model its always nice to have something to refer to when doing these kind of projects nice to know I dont have to take apart the drive system to get the old engine out as I first thought !!!

  4. Thank you for the video! I just got done putting the same engine on basically the same mower. Your video was a great resource. Thank you again for the video!

  5. Have you had any problem with the spark plug wire being too close to the muffler? I have the same muffler and wrapped the wire in some heat resistant tape and stuck it behind the OHV box. Have you had any issues?

  6. late to the party, but…. I agree with 1guyin10.  I spent $500 for a new 10.5 hp Briggs replacing the original 8 hp unit worn out on my 30" deck after 24 years.  As long your drive train is not worn out, too, the engine swap makes perfect sense.  New Snappers cost $1,500 and up.  And you can't tip up the new ones for blade/deck/drive service.  My 10.5 unit fit w/o rubbing the fenders, but I did have the same muffler issue and had to purchase that expensive muffler and curly pipe.  Now if only I could find a new, cheap seat!

  7. one last thing, Paul Mitchell, yes I had same problem of plug wire rubbing on muffler and it was eating through the insulation until I rerouted it to avoid rubbing.

  8. Are Snapper frames mounting patterns drilled to accept different hp engines? Example 8hp is a different pattern than a 12hp. I found a Snapper 1433 frame and was thinking of putting a smaller hp engine on.

  9. For the guys who are looking for a cheap/good seat, you might consider a boat seat. I'll keep an eye out for videos on governors/repair. Thanks for this video

  10. Just over a year ago I repowered my Snapper RER. It had a 10 horsepower Tecumseh with a ton of hours on it. It ran but had carb issues. So instead of rebuilding it or re3placing the carb I decided to use a Honda 6.75 horse engine from my push mower. It doesnt have enough power to drive and cut at the same time. I have since gone out and bought another tractor for its engine. I will be repowering it yet again with a 14 horsepower OHV Briggs from a YArd MAchine MTD. I plan on starting this project this weekend. I will be referring to this video.

  11. What voltage regulator did you use to keep from overcharging your battery? Just wondering, as I just repowered my 1968 Snapper 307XS 30" rear engine rider with the exact same engine. I am guessing that a Briggs & Stratton 845907 would work, but, I can find no information on which regulator is the correct one. Anyone out there know for sure? Let me know. Thanks for posting.

  12. what was the serial number for the snapper muffler that you put on that mower. I need to buy one myself. Thanks.

  13. Nice click bait…but not necessary. Great video, exactly what I was looking for. My old L head valve seats blew out my last cut. Fortunately it was going in to long term storage for deployment. Getting ready to return and this is going to be my first project. Thanks for the video.

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