48 Replies to “STIHL CHAIN SAW REPAIR : OEM VS AFTERMARKET”

  1. I recently rebuilt my Stihl 044 with bearings piston an jug and it runs perfect. 
    I also rebuilt my Husqvarna 371 xp that was sitting in a box for about 4 years and I don't know why i didn't rebuild it sooner love that saw, both rebuilds were done with aftermarket parts off of Ebay and I am satisfied with the results.

  2. Question: Can you increase displacement on an Echo CS440 by installing a larger jug & piston?
    Great videos……I like y'all & all y'all…..you do good work, quick, sensible, relevant and to the point…..good editing, too, I think…..

  3. I rebuilt an 026 that my uncle had junked just for a little tinker project, went with an after market jug and piston. Like you said I de burred the exhaust port but it had ran flawless for over a year.

  4. My husband is a big fan of the after market price but has never rebuilt a chainsaw except his Poland chainsaw and it froze up when he tried to use it in warm weather. He will definitely buy the aftermarket parts if the need arises, it only makes sense.

  5. I have rebuilt quite a few stihl's and I can tell you that if you use NWP Brand Pistons and Cylinders you will actually be getting as good or better quality rebuilds than any other brand and they run about $100.-$130. per kit. One thing that I like about NWP is they coat most of their pistons with a teflon coating which really helps allow proper break in without metal to metal friction and also the entire outside of the cylinder is coated with teflon which is a superb way of helping reduce buildup of baked on sawdust and oil. Go with NWP and try it out for yourself!

  6. i bought a complete ms260 engine assembled from huztl on the bay.   what a pile of junk and forget returning it cause shipping back to china w/ tracking is more than engine cost.  came w/ fins broken off head since they didn't even put it in a box, just styrofoam w/ tape around it.  piston & cylinder had scratches, wrist pin bearing race was cracked & lots of metal shavings inside engine.  oh yea and they assembled it dry!

  7. The problem with cheap kits are many. First what is the makeup of the metal that goes into this item? Can they control the quality from one batch to the next? what about the rings? How much force does it take to close them? What did they plate the cylinder with? The answer to all are not good enough. The only Aftermarket cylinder that are any good time after time are the ones made by Meteor Pistons. They have been making cylinders and pistons for more than 40 years. How long has the cheap knockoff been around? Tell me you really believe a cheap knockoff going to perform like one that has the right specification that will give good performance. Cheap is cheap  

  8. I PUT A NEW 49MM PISTON, AND CYLINDER KIT ON MINE, AND THE COMPRESSION WAS 120PSI,NOT A GOOD FEELING.
    ALSO NEW CARB ZAMA, THE CHOKE STICKS HAD TO FILE DOWN, THE NEW FUEL HOSE GETS KINKED AT A 90 DEGREE ANGLE,THE INTAKE BOOT HAD TO SHAVE THE TWO BUMPS DOWN TO FIT RIGHT, I TESTED A NEW AFTER MARKET FLY WHEEL MAGNET STRENGTH, AND IT WAS'NT AS STRONG.
    MAGNETS LOOSE THER MAGNATISM OVER TIME.

  9. I put a Zama Carb on my Husky 359. After fixing many other issues with the saw, found that the carb wouldn't adjust. Ran extremely rich ( even with both screws all in). Ordered another. Worked perfect. Didn't even need adjusting. I guess first one was made on Chinese friday.

    Also would like to know the origin country of manufacture of these cylinder kits. Some retailers will tell you, others dont.

  10. Never had an Asian part go bad (since the late '90s). I have had many OEM parts come back wrong. Stihl in particular changes parts around so fast you can't keep up. The MS880 exhaust fit to the cylinder is a good example.

    Funny thing happened when I ordered a knock off MS192 engine. It showed up in a Stihl bag. I compared them with calipers. They were dead equal. I paid $125 on eBay for a complete assembled OEM engine, boot, impulse, plug and Tiny tube of Dirko. Hilarious if you do any of this stuff for very long.

  11. I got a piston and cylinder kit aftermarket came with bearings and crank seals used aftermarket crank seals in the past had no problem last week I rebuilt another one and the crank seals were too tight around the crankshaft

  12. Been a power equipment tech for 35 yrs. Looks like the general consensus here is that aftermarket stuff is OK. I agree and here's why. I've got news for the few that disagree in that one of the "major player" brands purchased ZAMA corp a few yrs ago and thus why you'll find ZAMA carbs on virtually every model sold. ZAMA is in China. Several models of their equipment are manufactured and assembled there as well and state such on the serial number sticker, which also by the way are more obscurely placed rather than in plain sight. Also they are not manufacturing their pistons, bearings, etc in-house but are having them manufactured in China. There are exceptions but for the most part those 50.00 – 129.00 aftermarket kits are just as good as the 300.00 ones because they come from the same place. Like it was mentioned there is overcast (one of the reasons they're cheaper) so a little clean up (polishing is recommended) and use LOT's of assembly oil. Installed correctly these CHEAP kits will provide years of good service.

  13. The one guy I trust and who has been in the business for many years. He told me the after market stuff is junk. He said in almost every case it had come back to bite him on the backside
    I had to replace the engine head on a FS55 trimmer. I got a after market kit. They did not send the clips to hold the pin for the head. So after going to several small engine repair shops. And nobody has them but not to worry they can order them. Also no one has the ring compress tool. To put the piston back into the head. So it goes to a shop next week.
    . I am thinking , OH Great ! since I just got one. This may be a bad omen, No locking clips, No tool to compress the rings. And I have to let someone else work on it.

  14. I use a lot of farmertec stuff, most of it is pretty good for light to moderate use. for your average consumer most of the time it fits the bill. prices are very reasonable. I have had a few lemons but I caught them before I put them into service.

  15. This is my experience with Stihl aftermarket parts which are sold on Ebay & the likes , I have recently repaired a Stihl HS45 hedge trimmer & this is what I had to look out for :-

    Cylinder & piston repair kits – OEM bolts (5mm) didn't screw into the aftermarket holes (too large) , it was a matter of what you can get away with, I ended up being brave enough to drill the crankcase housing screw holes out to 6mm & fit 4 x 304 grade M6 x 1mm stainless steel Allen bolts,I tapped the bolt holes out with a thread tap , the gasket sealing surfaces aren't always machined off flat with a milling machine so the casting is still a bit rough which means there's a chance of the machine having air leaks, I used gasket sealant on the gaskets (not normally required) so there's no chance of the crankcase sucking any air into the crankcase,the engine was a bit "doughy" on acceleration particularly when cold once the engine was started,my dad (I did it up for a nursing home he works at) trimmed the hedges at home with it so within 1 hour or 2 the piston rings broke in so the engine became more free revving,so the aftermarket kit was probably a bit tighter than OEM.

    Ignition coils – I would never buy an aftermarket coil on Ebay ever again unless someone can prove that the ignition coil is a direct replacement for an OEM one, the Stihl HS45 hedge trimmer before 2001 has a matched (timed) coil & crankshaft where either part cannot be interchanged with a 2001 onwards machine which also is matched , for example , the 4140 400 1300 ignition coil cannot simply be fitted onto a 2001 onwards hedge trimmer which requires a 4140 400 1303 type of ignition coil or vise versa,the crankshafts cannot be interchanged unless a matching ignition coil is fitted,I am sure I was sold an ignition coil for a Homelite chainsaw which fitted the Stihl engine but it didn't run it (only backfired due to incorrect ignition timing),Stihl have the OEM part number printed onto the ignition coil whereas the aftermarket ones don't so I cannot take the Ebay sellers word for it that the aftermarket coils will work even though they physically fit – electronically they are different,they are labelled with the correct part number on the site but they are usually the wrong ignition coil.
    I ordered the genuine ignition coil with the part number 4140 400 1308 as this replaces the obsolete 4140 400 1303 ignition coil – well, the engine fired up after only 2 pulls of the starter cord.

    Carburettors – They are usually right , with the Stihl Zama carbys just match up the existing C1Q part number & you can't go wrong.

    I am a person whose careful with part numbers & things like that because I used to fix power tools for a living,like for example , Bosch had a 5 inch industrial grade angle grinder where at least 2 of them were the same model number, the 10 digit type numbers were different & the part numbers for parts such as the armature were different,while they physically fitted they are not interchangeable (the machine will heavily spark thus burning the armature windings out) so just be very careful when ordering parts.
    I found out that Stihl use different ignition coils on the same hedge trimmer which were made before & onwards from 2001 by downloading the spare parts list which wasn't even written in english so I had to convert it over to that,so , just because an Ebay listing for an aftermarket ignition coil shows an OEM part number, don't trust that it's the right coil as the seller may not even be aware the aftermarket manufacturer probably isn't aware of what Stihl & their suppliers IIDA & Walbro know about,in other words,other manufacturers have obviously failed to copy off them or on the first occasion a facetious seller just blatantly sold me a Homelite type of ignition coil.

  16. after market parts from china are junk very poor quality will not last. oem is the best next would be Meteor brand thats all i use because you loose money if it comes back. been there done that

  17. I realize you posted this 3 years ago but I'm gonna agree with you. I've worked on my own stuff all my life and I'm talking since 1996 when I was racing go-carts and I'm 33 now. I'm sure you've been in it much longer but I'll use aftermarket part on a lot of things as long as the parts aren't so cheap that it's garbage and wont last. It's happened, I've bought a brand and it turn out to be junk and I just stay away from that brand. I have 18 old chain saws. Some from the 70s and 80s and a few from the early 90s ( My dad was a logger ). Most are Jonsered, a few Stihl and a few Husqvarna. They haven't run in years and some haven't ran in 20 years. I've been able to fix most of them on my own. I was glad to have stumbled upon your video earlier tonight on pressure testing the crank case. So I've been watching more of your videos. I have air getting sucking in from somewhere so I had to search for reasons unknown to me. This is the first time I've needed help fixing a saw and I'm very thankful for ya.

  18. Where might you suggest looking for old saw parts such as Jonsered? I'm having trouble finding some things such as clutches. I guess they never intended these saws to last 30 years or better. I've tried ebay and actually found a few parts.

  19. got a meteor pot and piston kits and seems just as good, i wouldn't get a cheap one. i'm trying to find a good non genuine carb for my ms360 chainsaw. any ideas?

  20. I think after market is the better choice in this case as long as you mic it b4 installing it and look for defects you will have a good chance its not a bad part. Oem doesn't stand for quality like it used to also people that don't work on this kind of equipment every day just don't see the same junk parts all the time that oem and after market both seem to be sending more often nowadays.

  21. this guy is a total dumb fuck. how much quality is in a cylinder that costs $50? they sell it for 50 bucks so it costs maybe $20 or less to make it. this cheap stuff is garbage and will not last

  22. I've used dozens of aftermarket pistons and cylinders for years on all my Stihl chainsaws with ZERO issues, and all my saws are HEAVILY used!!!!! And like you said, OEM Stihl engine parts have NO warranty and aftermarket does, and at less than 1/4 the cost over OEM!!!! To me, it's a no-brainer!!! Going with aftermarket has saved me literally $1000's over the years!!!! And BTW, I NEVER use Stihl 2 stroke oil, either regular or their synthetic, it's junk!!!!!! I only use Redline 2 Stroke Racing or Klotz Supertechniplate oil, and always mixed 40:1!! Maybe that's part of the reason I get way longer use (even running aftermarket) out of my saws between rebuilds than the guys dead set on using only Stihl oil??

  23. I guess I have used just about every type of two cycle oil in existence in the past 40 odd years. I think I still have several cans of stamina that I used in my Poulan saws for years. the problem, today, is the sorry gas we are forced to use thanks to the Clinton's. I use stihl's ultra oil because I have a good supply for it and it is synthetic. I also know it is made by a good manufacturer- Castrol. I like Penns oil better but I do not have a good source for it. my friend from Wisconsin uses Citgo two cycle oil but I do not have a supplier for it, either. I have used a lot of husqvarna LS oil but it is only partially synthetic. I do not run my stihl or husqvarna equipment with other than a 50:1 mix. I do break in new engines at a little bit richer mix but not over 2 cupful of extra Ultra oil in the tank but only for the first tank. the second tank gets only one cap full extra. after that they get my standard 50:1 mix of premium, non ethanol mix. the key to the life of any chainsaw is not to work it beyond its capabilities. my ms 170 only works at a one tank a daw clip ,but I will work my bigger saws more. I generally get tired before they do.

  24. I do many rebuilds on stihl products and I find the after market kits are good for the smaller engine size machines, anything up to an ms260 id say they were OK but I've had issues with the bigger machines and won't entertain them, ts410 not so bad, ms660 waste of time ect

  25. Here's another angle.

    I just got a Stihl 038 AV Magnum saw back from the Stihl dealer's repair shop. They say it's not repairable because it has cylinder & piston damage and parts are not available.

    "Aftermarket" looks like it may be my only choice if I want to use that saw.

  26. if your running stock power for home/occasional use the aftermarket cylinder will probably work… if you are falling timber or using the saw 6+hrs per day and are going to do any modifications to it (porting, milling, transfer port work, decking, changing the timing). then the OEM cylinder is the way to go. the aftermarket ones don't hold up. just my 2 cents and what I've seen.

  27. I been rebuilding chainsaws for years and I have to say OEM is the way to go,  But there are some good aftermarket parts that I have used and they have done well in the field . I have a Stihl 084 I have rebuilt and ill put that son of a bitch up against any saw on the planet.   I recommend the fuel in the can 50to 1 cant go wrong with it.  Main thing is when you rebuild a saw make sure your crankcase is still good check it good and start your rebuild fresh my best advice I can give you .  any questions please feel free to contact me I be happy to answer any questions .

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