Tractor hydro transmission repair or rebuild Part 3



http://amzn.to/2fkixY9 Transaxle replacement John Deere
http://amzn.to/2fbNApO Craftsman transmission replacement
http://amzn.to/2eVbeTv Husqvarna replacement trans.
http://goo.gl/N6j4S8 Click link to get hydro. oil
http://goo.gl/N6j4S8 Click link to get oil and parts.
This is part 3 of the tractor hydrostatic transmission rebuild in a John Deere L118. Disclaimer:
Doublewide6 has a Master’s Degree in industrial technology with a specialization in Manufacturing, due to factors beyond the control of Doublewide6 and anyone featured in his videos, I cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. Doublewide6 assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video or any of Doublewide6’s videos. Use this information at your own risk. Doublewide6 recommends safe practices when working on equipment, power tools, chemicals, electronics, electrical systems, vehicles, and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of Doublewide6, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not Doublewide6. Please support Doublewide6 by donating to his Patreon Account https://www.patreon.com/doublewide6

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47 thoughts on “Tractor hydro transmission repair or rebuild Part 3

  1. I know this was 6 years ago but looks like you did a good job. Thank for posing it it may need a shim on the differential But after 6 years is it still going

  2. Can you tell me the torgue settings for the bolts that seal up the housing? I just pit the gasket sealer on and have tightened them down, but i was not sure the settings? Thanks for any help.

  3. Thanks for showing…would you do it again? How many more years you got out of it?. Seems mine is on its last leg…worth to fix?? Actually.. I have done a repair ones by grinding/lapping worn plates without spending any on parts, got 3 more season out of it.

  4. I would have replace the oil seals if I went this far. Also before I would seal it up I would test fit the case together making sure it fits tight together with the bolts and turn the whole system so it turns nice and easy. Then take the cover back off and then seal it. Nothing worse than finding out somethings not right and have to mess with that silicone again. Just saying

  5. You have no idea how helpful your video for rebuilding a Tuff Torq John Deere Transmission. Thank You so much for the effort you put into this video. Thanks again.

  6. You are very patient with attention to detail. You explain clear and this will help many. I think D Baker is on to a possible (why) with the seeming slop at axle gears.

  7. Doublewide6, What is the whining noise coming from the mower it almost sounds like a bad power steering pump?
    My Craftsman with the K46 sounds exactly the same way.

  8. Looking at the top of the unit , fill plug . Right across from it is another black cap . Do you know what that is ? An where did you get a parts list for the trans axle . Thanks ! I have a husqvarna that the axle shaft broke . $80 bucks for new shafts from ebay .

  9. you are a brave dude. great video. I watch most of your videos thanks. I do small engine repair here in The Napa Valley ca. The sun is shining now and the machines are coming. I'm 75 and getting to old for the riders now. I stick to smaller lawn mowers chain saw 2 and 4 cycle.

  10. i guess the gears are designed to wear out so that you are not torqued around when stop and go mowing would enplaine the magnates. Anyway i have to do my JD-118 too i hope its the gears too.

  11. I have the exact same hydrostatic transmission on my John Deere, its apparent from your video that them calling it not serviceable is ridiculous.

  12. Do you think the fact that John Deere uses 10w30 vs the synthetic 5w50 recommended oil is the reason that the problem occurred?

  13. Hate to say it, but there a lot of lash between the axle gears to the spider gears, and could be most of of the problem of why the the diff ate the axle gears to begin with.

    Truth be told, I would load some thin wave washers between the back sides of the C clips to the face of the end locks, to mesh the axle gears to the spider gears tighter to take out a great deal of that lash between them as they are free running, plus the thin washer will shim the gears together better even when fully compressed. Hence looking at the mesh of the gears now with everything back together, you can see that is just the tips of the axle gears to spiders tips gears that are meshing (way too much lash), and under torque, going to be worse with the axle gears driving away from the spider gears even more without shimming as well.

  14. My first view as well. Very informative an definitely a confidence booster. I'm willing to give it a try should I encounter this problem. Thanks for the great video and I agree with Howard, it's even better without the swear words that seem so prevalent these days

  15. 8:50 I would have used a couple of matching bolts or studs, but that's just me and my shaky hands.. I recognize the transaxle as the closest to my Simplicity. I have a reservoir under the hood and it starts about an inch from the bottom cold and then near the upper hose when hot. But it's been giving me trouble and slowing down when it gets hot, such as hotter weather.. Which is when I don't like to cut. Mornings are usually damp sticky grass. So, I usually cut a few hours before dusk ( evening) Instead of changing the oil, I pull some out of the reservoir when hot or high and replaced that with new oil, out of desperation.. I don't see myself pulling this apart until the late fall…. or until it gets worse. But I wish I had a temp gauge for the trans oil. I have used the laser thermometer at lest once when it felt too warm.

  16. Good videos took a lot of the mystery out of these hydro transmissions. Hope my cub cadet has the same trans so I can get parts of I ever need them.

  17. I thank the noise is from the fan I thank you put the washer in the wrong place I thank you should have put it on the bottom of the fan

  18. Thanks for taking the time to make this video, Im curious as to why those gears failed, did you notice the seal condition on the axels, was there any play on the axels while inside the axel housing, Tuff Torq tranny 's usually out last the mower, Thanks again your videos are very helpful.

  19. Excellent job. I had an L110 with snowblower. That thing could take anything I could feed the blower and as fast as I could. I really made that transmission work by hauling 4,000 lbs of landscape rock around my house with a home made carrier bucket. One tough transmission. Last I seen it, it was still running excellent. People run down the cheap JD, but not true. Good machine. If your front spindles ever get loose. The bushings are hardened steel and the spindles are what wears out. The bushings are like $40 each, but the whole spindle assembly was only $15 each at the time.

  20. Great job! If the two sections of the case are separate I wonder how the oil gets into each section when there is only one fill.

  21. excellent videos. i have two jd la145 w/ t40 / t46. one works super. i rebuilt the 2nd & instatalled. bleed air. works ok but does not engage as fast as other one. on right hand pedal for for / rev there is no adj. on left for stopping is adjust. i tightened up similiar to other. still is sluggish. primary drive belt deflection is 1.5 inches. any ideas how to improve . thanks

  22. Great videos. If you were gonna drill and tap a drain plug for future maintenance, where would you put one? Or do you think that is a little overkill? My first transmission lasted 12 years on my L110. Thanks again for a great video series.

  23. If you were to use silver or clear RTV no one would know unit had been apart.Seeing red RTV is a red flag to me.Good job otherwise.

  24. I know this is an old video series and apologize for commenting on it. I enjoy your work and wanted to say that you did a good job with the repair. In my "pre-retirement" years I repaired industrial drives much like the Hydro you worked on. Much larger but same principle! So many YouTube creators have said that the hydros are not serviceable, but now I know better. I had always wondered what type system they were and now I know that the pump and motor are what is known as "swash-plate" as opposed to a positive displacement gear pump. They allow for a little flow-by so there's not need to add expensive regulators etc. It is odd that JD would opt for 10w30 when Tuff Torque recommends 5w50 full synthetic. Maybe its a cost thing to keep themselves at a competitive price point. It is odd to me. Anyway, thanks for sharing it. All the best

  25. Great Videos! Very good camera work and thorough explaining. Did you by chance see how the input shaft (the one that goes from the pulley to the pump) comes out? Mine is stripped and it seems like its not wanting to budge out the top.

  26. tuff torq has the process of bleeding air out on their website. basically up on jackstands, pump the coast switch a few times, the go forward and backwards on the pedals up in the air until air bled.

  27. I did this.  Great video.  I have a problem though, now when I press to go forward, I go in reverse and when I press the foot peg to go in reverse, I go forward,  What did I do wrong?????

  28. I commend you for tackling this project, it's also something I would have tackled, but not to many people I know would have, so how many hours total do you think you have in it ? and how long would a second one take !! Thanks for you time on the Video !!

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