What types of oil to use in small engines (4 stroke motor oils)

Quick video on which types (weights) i recommend to use in small engines. I prefer to use Valvoline brand oil, and to break engines with i use super tech brand. Not advertising brands of oil, just stating my personal preferences. Dont want to start a debate on oil brands here, just showing what weights to use. Thank You.



40 thoughts on “What types of oil to use in small engines (4 stroke motor oils)

  1. i don't have my license yet, just never got around to it, funny that were talking about because i'm getting ready to get my learners and hopefully license here soon, but when i do start, i want to get me a mid 80's S10 truck, anything older, i don't care much at all for new vehicles!

  2. Fair enough. The older vehicles are easier to work on, probably wouldn't benefit from synthetic oils as much, and are less expensive. That said, I personally like a vehicle with 4 wheel Disc Brakes… ABS, Stability Control/Traction Control etc. I also like the newer design of having one coil per plug, no plug wires, 4 valves per cylinder, overhead valves, and a lubricated timing chain that never needs to be replaced (vs. a belt), and I like variable valve timing/lift.

  3. oh yeah, thats what i like, and you can actually do 95% of the repairs yourself, the new cars you have to be a electrical engineer to fix them, i'm a electrician and i don't even understand whats going on haha I like the idea of 4 disc brakes, i hate rear drum brakes. I just don't like modern stuff haha even when it comes to music i like 50's and 60's country and rock!

  4. I listen to 50's, 60's, & 70's on XM on my newer car. Engineering just depends. With any car 1995+ you start with a scan tool to read a stored code (i.e. P0102 Mass Air Flow Sensor low input) Then with the car off you pull the sensor out of the air-box (in this example) and notice it is filthy, so you clean it then reconnect it, clear the code, and wait-and-see. If you have a miss, a code will tell you what cylinder. Plug, Coil-Pack, Clogged Injector, Computer, [or loss of compression ūüôĀ ]

  5. Newer model cars you can still do much of the routine maintenance yourself. Light Bulbs (or rather HIDs) are replaceable (interior LEDs won't burn out), you can top off fluids, change wipers, wash the car, perform an oil and filter change (you may need ramps & wheel chalks & a special filter wrench), can replace brake pads, rotate wheels, replace air filter & cabin air filter(s), and spark plugs are often cake right on top under their own coil packs. Anything major is easiest to contract out!

  6. I do like that about new cars, its easier to diagnose problems. i just don't like the fact that cars are computerized now, i like a old carburetor haha yeah thats true, the basic maintenance is still pretty much the same. Spark plugs on some new engines are really hard to get to. I do like how the codes will say like cylinder #2 misfire, then you can go to that one cylinder and see whats going on, fouled plug, or arcing wire or even something more major.

  7. hey am not getting oil no 30 in mauritius
    can u suggest me what type of oil in replacement of oil no 30 
    for my air compressor
    i need your answer as quick as possible

  8. Most small engine problems are due to gas going bad and not because of ethanol. Small engines have ALWAYS had problems with stale fuel gumming up the carburetor when left in for long periods of time.
    When a small engine like a lawn mower, leaf blower, chain saw, is being put up for the winter run it out of fuel before putting it away.  In the spring when filling your gas can for the first time add some Sta-Bil or Seafoam to the gas to extend its life. Gas generally starts to go bad after 30 -60 days. By adding the fuel stabilizer it will extend its life

  9. Thank you for your quick response. I'm going to stock up on SAE 30 HD oil to put in my customers mowers. I've been doing a lot of reading on the net about detergent versus non-detergent oils. Half of what you can find says only use detergent oils and the other half says only use non-detergent oils. Even info from manufacturers contradicts itself. I've been researching oil for a week and it's driving me crazy. I have found that, IF IT DOESN'T SPECIFICALLY SAY NON-DETERGENT ON THE BOTTLE IN BIG LETTERS, then it has detergent in it. Almost all the oil I've seen does not say it's non-detergent. So most of the oil sold everywhere does have detergent in it so it can't be that bad for a small engine like a lawnmower.

  10. Im not recommending that people don't follow the book on servicing there lawn mower but I change the oil once a year in any push lawn mower I have ever had regardless of how many hours I use it and I use any left over bottle of oil that I have from an oil change on a vehicle 5w20, 5w30, 10w30, 10w40. the engines always outlast the mower itself with little to no oil burning problems

  11. Great video. Quick question though: These small engines that use flat tappet camshafts recommend an engine oil with an API service rating of SJ with high ZDDP levels for anti-wear protection of the lobes/tappets. The Valvoline SAE 30W states it is an SN rated oil which has a greatly decreased additives I believe which can cause premature wear of the cam lobes, etc. Maybe I am wrong? But I know in classic cars with flat tappet cams, they have to have an SJ, SG or other good quality oil with a greater additive package in it.

  12. I have a Kawasaki Bayou 220 and my grandfather put SAE 5W 20 oil in it. Ever since then my quad wasn't running right. I told him to put SAE 30 or SAE 10W 30 in it. But with this other oil my quad goes very slow and sound funny. Loses speed in 5th gear, Did that other oil cause this problem?

  13. non detergent oil is old school an at on time that's all their was . DO NOT USE SYNTHETIC OIL IN YOUR LAWN MOWER. I had a lawn service bissness for 13 years I KNOW WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT .

  14. I have a Generator: Briggs and Stratton 4 cycle Single Cylinder. I have to say that the oil for winter and summer (10w-30) is the best choice for me.

  15. Was told your not suppose to use detergent oil on anything that doesn't had an oil filter to filter the particulates. What do ya think?

  16. always told never run 15w40 in air cooled motors. Not partial to multi viscosities. Like the diesel oil idea, but most are semi synthetic so I imagine you have to look. Always ran Kendall GT-1 40 wt in TB Horse tiller and motorcycles. Mowers and others I use 10w30 but will look for SJ designation for wear protection. I do worry about flat tappets after people lost race engines with cam failures after ZDDP was removed. BTW, recently sold my 97 Ram 318 with 455K on it and ran Valvoline 30 wt from day one. Only internal failure was a broken valve spring at 200K. Oil is cheap insurance.

  17. I'm glad that you brought up HD meaning high detergent. Many would think that it means heavy duty. I too have found the walmart supertech to be satisfactory and availability is awesome (every Walmart I've been to). Some of the bargain basement oils just have a burnt smell right out of the quart, very noticeable kind of scary.

  18. I used Valvoline racing 50 wt, in 1968 in my Norton 750 motorcycle and it blew the bottom out 3 times in 3 mths. The mechanic (He drag raced twin 750's inline) said some one was putting water in the oil tank, but what happened in the air cooled engine the oil could not handle the condensation and was foaming which broke down the lubrication ability. Never used Valvoline again.

  19. Valvoline is my 2nd choice. The DELO 15/40 is high detergent, high despersant, low ash, just very heavy duty. Good old diesel oil as you well know. Good presentation, Pal!

  20. Oil is oil it does not matter what brand it is or how much it is now I'm not trying to be shitty with u but I'm just saying oil is just OILL!!!!!!!!!

  21. Mine states 15w 40 so I'm putting 10w 40 as these engines lubricate by simply flicking the oil any oil within 10w to 40w will do 5w 30 is pants and your probably find you use lots of oil with that slightly less if fully synthetic

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